Whites:
2005 Dom. de l’Ecu, Muscadet Expression de Garanite:
Very bright, juicy and fresh fruit smells and flavors backed with a peppery spice and mineral backbone; all delivered as though on the snap of a whip. This is a tremendous bottle of wine, has lots of years to go but shows beautifully now. 12% alcohol and about $17, on release.
2005 Tribut, Chablis Côte de Lechet:
Has richened and become more strongly flavored since the end of last year. Steely aromatics but more depth and complexity in the mouth; immense length. I’m guessing this is just starting to reveal its core of concentrated fruit. Very energetic and excellent with grilled chicken. About $26, delivered.
Reds:
1996 Dom. de Montgilet, Anjou Villages:
After 13 years, this has finally become drinkable – actually, more than that – its a smooth, balanced expression of Loire cabernet franc that has good depth of flavor and some richness. For years this wine was nothing but green pepper juice – now, that element is but a hint and the fruit has come around very nicely. But that’s too long to wait for a wine to become drinkable and, while I enjoyed this bottle (my last) tonight, I’ll not be buying more from these folks. 13%alcohol and about $20 on release.
Very brief impressions of wines at lunch and at a tasting:
2003 Marcassin, Pinot Noir:
Spicy and balanced but without complexity and very slightly hot on the finish. Pleasant; no more.
Marcassin, Chardonnay (vintage and vineyard unknown):
All vanilla all the time. Not for me.
1982 Château Ducru-Beacaillou:
A somewhat musty nose (not TCA) but fairly fresh fruit, some grip and a decent finish. Not special but pretty good.
1999 Produtorri del Barbaresco:
Beautiful, feathery wine with sustain and presence. Almost Burgundy-like in weight and texture. Drinking very well.
2006 Bevan Cellars, Syrah:
Too much new wood at this stage of its life for my taste but the concentration and flavor profile are just plain yummy.
2005 Bevan Cellars, Syrah:
Much more complex and with much less oak than the 2006; graceful despite remarkable intensity. Quite good.
1996 Dom Pérignon:
Oh my! Without question, the most delectable and impressive Champagne of my life. Thanks Kevin.
We also had a Paul Hobbes, Cabernet (vintage unknown) that supposedly got 100 points from Mr. Parker. I found it nicely balanced and showing some complexity but having little varietal character and being a little hollow at mid-palate. Then we compared it to the 2006 Bevan Cellars, Cabernet and I found the Bevan to have more character, be more identifiable as cabernet and much more concentrated.
At the end of the night, somebody poured a recent vintage Colgin, Cabernet which smelled like a pickle barrel – I never got any farther than the nose and didn’t want to.
Best, Jim
