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WTN: anti-Premox (it should have been dead) Puligny,98 Nenin

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Dale Williams

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WTN: anti-Premox (it should have been dead) Puligny,98 Nenin

by Dale Williams » Sat Apr 18, 2009 12:51 pm

Who on earth would buy a 27 year old negociant village white Burgundy in half bottle (from a vintage where many GCs are over the hill)? Well, that would be me. Sometimes if I have won a few bottles on Winebid and end of month is coming up, I'll buy a few fanciful $5 or $10 bottles as a science experiment, as the incremental shipping costs are minimal. So a couple months ago bought 2 375s of the 1982 Pierre Bouree Puligny Montrachet (damp damaged labels, but good fills and color). Since I had not had wine on Thursday (took group around city) and had a few hours before Betsy got back for a late rehearsal for dinner, I thought I'd give one a try last night. Besides, the dinner red was waiting, if I needed to pour down drain as I expected. Hmmm, clean intact cork. Hey, nice color. Whoa, it's alive. And not hanging on by a thread either, a perfectly drinkable mature white Burgundy. No off-putting oxidative notes, just a nice mature nose of citrus peel, hazelnut, and honied pears. On the palate it's medium bodied with sweet fruit, there a little chalky note on finish. I enjoy a glass in wonder, then another small one, recork, and offer some to Betsy on her arrival. Still kicking, a bit more floral, the honied notes more pronounced, but could easily be at home in a lineup of 10-12 year old Pulignys. Not really the depth or minerality of a premier cru, but quite satisfying. B++

I really like the flavor profile of aged white Burgundy, too bad till I see evidence that the PremOx issue is solved I'm drinking them young. But this sure was fun. I have one more, and realize that "there are no great...." but will look forward to trying, though hopefully tempering expectations.

Dinner was a mixed grill (Irish bangers and skirt steak), grilled eggplant, green beans,and a little bit of sauteed spinach. Dinner wine was the 1998 Ch. Nenin (Pomerol). Ripe red plums laced with coffee, still a bit tannic, lower acids, a tad blocky. Good but not great Right Banker that probably could use a couple more years. B

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
 
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Tim York

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Re: WTN: anti-Premox (it should have been dead) Puligny,98 Nenin

by Tim York » Sun Apr 19, 2009 6:19 am

Dale Williams wrote:I really like the flavor profile of aged white Burgundy, too bad till I see evidence that the PremOx issue is solved I'm drinking them young.
 


I am going one step further. With 1ers crus from the Côte d'Or costing €50+, I am not buying them at all as I can't be sure that they will make it to maturity when the price is arguably justifiable.

No big hardship, though, because at <€20, there are plenty of good Chalonnais, Mâconnais, Jura Chard and some generic Chablis which are excellent when young.

I think Premox as a big issue only kicked in with the mid-90s vintages, so one is perhaps safer picking up bin-ends from earlier vintages. Still that performance for a 27 year old villages wine in a half-bottle is remarkable.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: anti-Premox (it should have been dead) Puligny,98 Nenin

by Dale Williams » Sun Apr 19, 2009 7:38 am

My strategy is similar, but I do buy some Cote d'Or- Matrot or Pernot Bourgogne, St Aubin 1ers, etc. $30 is usually my limit for Chardonnay I plan on drinking young.
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Re: WTN: anti-Premox (it should have been dead) Puligny,98 Nenin

by David Z » Sun Apr 19, 2009 9:32 am

Ugh, Matrot. I had a couple of BRUTALLY premoxed 375 2001 Mersaults from them few years ago that turned me off White Burgundy completely till they fixed the problem. Sherry in a 5 year old wine? Really!?
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Re: WTN: anti-Premox (it should have been dead) Puligny,98 Nenin

by Dale Williams » Mon Apr 20, 2009 4:58 pm

David Z wrote:Ugh, Matrot. I had a couple of BRUTALLY premoxed 375 2001 Mersaults from them few years ago that turned me off White Burgundy completely till they fixed the problem. Sherry in a 5 year old wine? Really!?


Well,that's the whole PremOx issue, and Matrot isn't the only one (actually the minority are the estates that seem not to have an issue)

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