by Dale Williams » Sat Apr 18, 2009 12:51 pm
Who on earth would buy a 27 year old negociant village white Burgundy in half bottle (from a vintage where many GCs are over the hill)? Well, that would be me. Sometimes if I have won a few bottles on Winebid and end of month is coming up, I'll buy a few fanciful $5 or $10 bottles as a science experiment, as the incremental shipping costs are minimal. So a couple months ago bought 2 375s of the 1982 Pierre Bouree Puligny Montrachet (damp damaged labels, but good fills and color). Since I had not had wine on Thursday (took group around city) and had a few hours before Betsy got back for a late rehearsal for dinner, I thought I'd give one a try last night. Besides, the dinner red was waiting, if I needed to pour down drain as I expected. Hmmm, clean intact cork. Hey, nice color. Whoa, it's alive. And not hanging on by a thread either, a perfectly drinkable mature white Burgundy. No off-putting oxidative notes, just a nice mature nose of citrus peel, hazelnut, and honied pears. On the palate it's medium bodied with sweet fruit, there a little chalky note on finish. I enjoy a glass in wonder, then another small one, recork, and offer some to Betsy on her arrival. Still kicking, a bit more floral, the honied notes more pronounced, but could easily be at home in a lineup of 10-12 year old Pulignys. Not really the depth or minerality of a premier cru, but quite satisfying. B++
I really like the flavor profile of aged white Burgundy, too bad till I see evidence that the PremOx issue is solved I'm drinking them young. But this sure was fun. I have one more, and realize that "there are no great...." but will look forward to trying, though hopefully tempering expectations.
Dinner was a mixed grill (Irish bangers and skirt steak), grilled eggplant, green beans,and a little bit of sauteed spinach. Dinner wine was the 1998 Ch. Nenin (Pomerol). Ripe red plums laced with coffee, still a bit tannic, lower acids, a tad blocky. Good but not great Right Banker that probably could use a couple more years. B
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.