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WTN: Entry-level Giacosa & Eiswein

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David Z

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WTN: Entry-level Giacosa & Eiswein

by David Z » Sat Apr 18, 2009 7:13 pm

2005 Bruno Giacosa Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore- I've had this thrice, all from different vintages, and it never disappoints. Pale red, slight bricking already at the rim, but full of strawberries and butterscotch on the nose. Tangy and vibrant on the palate. A smashing match for a roast beef, au jus, on Zabar's rye. Some tannin here. No rush to drink, especially given the grape and the producer, but this is plenty enjoyable now.

1998 Patheigher Kaseler Kehrnagel Riesling Eiswein- Slight signs of seepage under the capsule and a dodgy, dried-out cork that didn't make a "pop" when it came out. And yep, this wine is a much deeper-gold than you'd typically see in a 10 year old Riesling, so I'm glad I opened this now.
This is advanced, maybe a smidge heat-affected, but still fantastic. It's incredibly sweet, loaded with botrytis flavors, tastes like a rich pineapple-upside down cake covered with caramel sauce. But its not a bit cloying. Its all held together by an acidity that you don't find in Sauternes or Loire moelleux. A "wow" wine even with the heat damage.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Entry-level Giacosa & Eiswein

by Dale Williams » Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:00 pm

I really love the Valmaggiore, seldom see it. It's not actually the entry level, there is a plain Nebbiolo d'Alba, but certainly priced well compared to the Barolos and Barbarescos. Thanks for notes
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Entry-level Giacosa & Eiswein

by David M. Bueker » Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:06 pm

I would not automatically ascribe the advanced color or flavors in your Eiswein to heat. Many modern Eisweins have that botrytis influence, and it deepens their color & adds the caramelly aspect early in life.

Some producers (e.g. Selbach-Oster) go for a purer expression of Eiswein, sans botrytis & those maintain a bright, green-gold color for a long time.
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Re: WTN: Entry-level Giacosa & Eiswein

by David Z » Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:43 pm

David, after I posted my note I found this note from you on eBob about the same wine:

"1998 Kaseler Kehrnagel Riesling Eiswein, Patheiger (Ruwer): What a beast. This was huge in sugar, flavor and acidity. Holy cow! Oof. Amazing eiswein. Not for the faint of heart though. It has more baked peach, honey and caramel than should fit in two bottles."


I was actually proud of myself---our notes match pretty closely, eh? I suspect you're right, and it wasn't damaged.


Dale, I first encountered the Valmaggiore on the wine list at Felida- I don't know if it still on there as I haven't been there in a few years, but they used to have late-90's vintages of this for maybe 20% above the current retail price.

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