WTN: A pair from the Douro

A couple moderately priced wines from the Douro:

2005 Vale do Bomfim Douro Reserva (Portugal):

A blend of the usual grapes found in Port, this one from Dow (Symington Group). Fairly deep color, not looking very aged yet with a slight violet tinge. Nose is fairly reserved, even with some air time and swirling - just a few hints of graphite. A lot more happening on the palate: mid weight, quite deftly balanced. Curranty bright fruit, good depth and a hint of woody, undrgrowth notes. Milk chocolate, cardamom. No obvious oak, good with beef. Nice tannins that suggest this could benefit from another 5 years. Great QPR at $12 - I'll try to keep some around to see how it evolves. 13% abv

2003 Quinta do Vallado, Douro (Portugal):

Again, a Douro blend; the lower end of a range for this house. Darker and even more youthful than the Bomfim. Again, a shy nose: swirling reveals some mineral notes and hints of sea air and poop. Less fruity and more structured than the above. Meaty, iron, black pepper sensations. Maybe a hint of spearmint and coal smoke. Still rather tightly wound - a glass tried the next day had opened up somehwhat to reveal a bit of raspberry, prune and bitter orange. Well made wine that doesn't give a lot of pleasure at this stage. Not sure it will develop into anything that interesting - maybe? From the 2003 vintage that I generally avoid for European wines, so maybe it is atypical. $18, 14% abv.

The 2006 Palestra Douro (from Dao Sul) that we drank last week offers more immediate pleasure than either of these at the shockingly low price of $5.99 (probably not one to age, nor is it meant to be). I will likely buy some more of the Bomfim, but not the Vallado.

2005 Vale do Bomfim Douro Reserva (Portugal):

A blend of the usual grapes found in Port, this one from Dow (Symington Group). Fairly deep color, not looking very aged yet with a slight violet tinge. Nose is fairly reserved, even with some air time and swirling - just a few hints of graphite. A lot more happening on the palate: mid weight, quite deftly balanced. Curranty bright fruit, good depth and a hint of woody, undrgrowth notes. Milk chocolate, cardamom. No obvious oak, good with beef. Nice tannins that suggest this could benefit from another 5 years. Great QPR at $12 - I'll try to keep some around to see how it evolves. 13% abv

I have had two of these so far and I agree that it needs time. I rarely decant but if I open another one anytime soon I plan to do so as this wine got better over the 2 hours it was open. Seemed to pick up weight and fill out somewhat. I found it for $10 and at that price bought the 8 in the store.

Brian,

I'm enjoying the fact that some of the more moderately priced Douro wines do not get the lavish oak treatment that one often finds in the expensive 'reserve' cuvees. With all those unique grape varieties the Portuguese would be wise to stay away from the 'international style' if at all possible (and I think many producers get it).