WTN: Pairing Chinon and Chiroubles with soft cheese, etc.

Faugères Réserve “La Maison Jaune” 2001 – J.M. Alquier – Alc.13.5% - is made from Syrah 50%+, Grenache and Mourvèdre. IMO, this cuvée and its more structured brother, Les Bastides, bid fair to be the most elegant wines in Languedoc and this ’01 was further confirmation; quite Northern Rhône Syrah in style with aromas of slightly metallic sour cherry and ivy, medium/full body, velvety fruit, fine balance, good tannic grip and length; oak ageing is perfectly managed (i.e. almost imperceptible); 16.5/20++.

Chinon 2005 – Domaine Bernard Baudry – Alc. 13% - is all that one can ask for in a young Chinon; fresh red fruit and minerals with just a hint of leather and bell pepper, lively acidity, medium body, some “gras”, ripe tannic support for the finish and good length; 16.5/20++.

Chiroubles 2006 – Michel Guignier – Domaine des Améthystes- Alc.12.5%. Guignier himself is an organic producer but this Domaine label seems to cover his négociant activity. The wine is exhilarating with brightly quaffable Gamay prune laced fruit, strong minerality, lively acidity, round body, a touch of friendly rusticity and that bright tangy fragrance typical of Chiroubles; 16/20++. (24 hours later, once the chill from the fridge has disappeared, less exuberant and darker but with more generous prune notes.)

Guignier also presented a Morgon ‘06, Fleurie ‘06 and a Mâcon-Villages blanc ’07 under the Améthyste label. They were of similar quality to the Chiroubles but the first two were firmer and more serious needing more time. I only bought the Chiroubles.

Valdeorras – Godello lías finas “Louro do Bolo” (W) 2007 – Bodegas Rafael Palacios – Alc.13.5% - gives even further confirmation of the excellence of this variety showing rich round white and tropical fruit with a caressing feel, Chard style, and refreshing minerality and acidity, good mouth-fill and shape; a last slurp after a balsamic salad brought out some cedar notes suggestive of oak ageing; if so, very deftly managed; 16/20++.

Re the controversy about pungent soft cheese and red Burgundy, I tried some of the Chinon and Chiroubles with a deliciously subtle but not very ripe Pont-l’Évêque cheese; it worked very well with the acidity of the wine piercing the clinging of the soft cheese on the palate; I guess that a young villages wine from the Côte d’Or would work equally well. I will make another experiment when the cheese is riper.

FWIW I totally see this match totally working with Chinon or Bourgueil.

As to the Burgundy match -- I am working up a suspicion that the people who consider it a good match may have eaten their cheese a little young and hard. The flavor ramps up remarkably as the cheese turns completely gooey.

Well, I am certainly up for this match! Look forward to trying asap.

As to the Burgundy match -- I am working up a suspicion that the people who consider it a good match may have eaten their cheese a little young and hard. The flavor ramps up remarkably as the cheese turns completely gooey.

Frank, I also doubt if this Chinon would work with a gooey Pont l'Évêque such as you describe. Mine was no longer hard but firm with still discreet but fine flavours. I will only risk an experimental last glass of, probably, Burgundy with this cheese when ripe and will have a bottle of lively Norman cider in reserve.