If you follow the river Rhein to the north you come to a part where the river turns and flow westward for a few miles. Here,north of the river, thus exposed to the south, lies the blessed Rheingau region. In the eastern end of Rheingau the river again turns north, passes under the Lorelei cliff and continues towards Koblenz, where it is joined but its tributary the Mosel. Along this stretch the river sides are incredibly steep and rocky and it is almost hard to believe one's eyes when one sees some of the vineyards that seems to be held to the steep slopes almost as by some magic. This is the less blessed Mittelrhein region. Less blessed, indeed, but still capable of producing some amazing wines, in particular if you are keen on having enough acidity in your wines. I don't have that much experience of the wines from Mittelrhein, so I thought it would be about time to open the only bottle from here that was in my cellar, and a very fine bottle it was.
WTN: 1999 Bacharacher Wolfshöhle Riesling Spätlese, Ratzenberger, Mittelrhein, Germany
Medium deep, yellow, almost golden colour.
A wonderfully opulent nose with roses, mature peaches, a whiff of honey against a slightly minerally background. It is just soo Riesling!
Initially the taste is rather sweet but the exceptionally racy acidity is rapidly removing much of the impressions of sweetness. Sweet, round and chewable fruit like candied peaches. The acidity carries the wine though a long, almost dry finish. There is an incredibly balance between the sweet, ripe fruit and the steely acidity. So mouthwatering and impossible to stop sipping until suddenly and sadly, the bottle is empty. A wonderful example of a well made Riesling, probably at its peak now after 10 years, but definitely with a long life still ahead. It will develop more of the burned firne aromas and honey, but will loose some of the luscious peach fruit. Which style you prefer is a matter of personal taste, but for me, this wine is perfect right now. Just a pity that I have no more of this in the cellar.
Cheers,
Anders
I haven't had many Ratzenbergers but from my small sample, I feel confident in saying that I love them! They seem to make bright and pure Rieslings perfectly tailored to my taste - they have a great Sekt, too!