WTN: 2006 Massolino Dolcetto d'Alba

2006 Massolino Dolcetto d'Alba 14.5%
Otto wrote good things about this producer so I picked up a bottle of their Dolcetto, though, on retrospect, something higher up on their totem pole might have been a better introduction. Aroma is initially plum and tar, later developing some iodine and chocolate. Marcia got fresh oregano and thought the fruit closer to prunes. Before food, the acidity is prominent, as due and proper. Marcia likes it a lot. There is also a surprising amount of tannin: medium, when I expected close to none. The alcohol makes it slightly hot at first, but that sensation disappers with food (a very nice Woolwich Dairy Triple Cream Goat Brie from Canada and a disappointingly dry Boule de Périgord with truffles). Once it (or we) reached cruising altitude and settled down, it was a solid bottle of decent stuff, but hardly enough to make me run for more. But will seek the Barbera.

I recall a comment (perhaps here) from someone bemoaning the poor quality / qpr of Dolcettos from very good Barolo producers. I don't have enough evidence myself to agree/disagree with the proposition.

regards

Ian

There is also a surprising amount of tannin: medium, when I expected close to none.

When Franco Massolino was here, he explained that his Dolcetto is structured more by tannins and his Barbera more by acidity. I think from what little I've tasted of these two grapes, I think that might be a fair generalization for other producers, too. Some Dolcettos I have found disappointingly acidless and IIRC some from over on Therapy/Disorder hardly bother with the grape at all because of this very reason.

It was however, the 2007, that I tasted of the basic Dolcetto and Barbera so I have no idea how it will compare with the '06. And also, I don't want or expect Dolcetto and Barbera to be very serious wines, but something joyful (never underestimate joyfulness in wine!) and food friendly and with a fast evaporation rate. The '07 was all that and I still remember it with fondness.

I don't want or expect Dolcetto and Barbera to be very serious wines, but something joyful (never underestimate joyfulness in wine!) and food friendly and with a fast evaporation rate. The '07 was all that and I still remember it with fondness.

Agreed, at this level I'm basically looking for joy, not depth. This didn't give it, but then again I'm much more often pleased with Barberas than Dolcettos.