2007 A. et P. de Villaine Bourgogne La Digoine Côte Challonaise 12.5%
What wine geek worth his/her salt isn't curious about whether some of that 'ole DRC magic might not rub off on these humble relatives from the south? They share the same organic farming methods and respect for terroir and won't break the bank, though the price of this, their second highest offering, in the mid $30s, is on the high side for a Bourgogne that is not even from the Coat Door (as Kevin Zraly calls it).
I was ready to decant because of youth but the cork was already somewhat stained, way too much given its age, making me glad I opened this on the early side. The nose from the bottleneck was already expressive, with church spices and mature cherry, reminiscent of a Gang of Five Morgon. In the glass, additional notes of violets and green twigs, the latter the only clue that this is a Bourgogne and not a Morgon. Funny, after running into many cru Beaujolais over the years that taste annoyingly like wannabe Bourgognes, it's interesting to find myself not the slightest bit irritated with a Bourgogne that tastes like a fine Morgon... Anyway, there is a subtle hint of vanilla, beautifully integrated (DRCs spend at least a year in new oak barriques with a light toast; the Villaine website says that these spend a year in barriques as well, presumably not new).
Mouthfeel was very pleasing, with good acidity, good structure, and a reasonably long finish, with a minute trace of bitterness before food. It went well with a truffled Boule du Périgord, but not so well with a creamier Italian Robiola. The acidity is not so high that it requires food, making it versatile. All in all, a very positive experience.