1964 Chanut Frères Morey St. Denis
A neighbor who is trying to market a stash of old bottles (including lots of 1995s) invited me to a store where he was going to open a bottle of this. The label was so deteriorated that I couldn't decipher if this was village level or more. From what came later, I suspect more. Never having heard of this négociant, I expected vinegar. I had never seen this done, but the bottleneck had been sealed with wax by the original owner. The cork looked like a charred mummy, but from mould, not seepage, and the tip looked clean enough. The color was a light translucent ruby, lovely and pale, in no way tired-looking or oxidative. Initial aromas were sour cherry, violets and cloves, with no off notes. The fruit was lovely and delicate, backed by fine and well-balanced acidity, with an endearingly sweet finish, like a pat on the cheek from your grandmother. Over the hour in which it was open it rapidly evolved and slowly deteriorated, taking on funky barnyard elements before expiring at the hands of an admiring audience. It is always a bit awe-inspiring to open something this old, and the fact that it was so lovely, still, filled all those present with reverence.