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WTN: European sun

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Mark S

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WTN: European sun

by Mark S » Wed Jun 10, 2009 2:08 pm

Chateau St. Anne, Bandol, 'cuvee vin de collection', 1999
This is St. Anne's, ahem, 'luxury cuvee' - a 98% mourvedre wine. This tastes like Badol that Eric T might make: mourvedre without the funk component and one of the most elegant ones I've had the pleasure of opening. There's a little woodsy mushroom on the nose, and dark chocolate covered plum, mulberry, bing cherry, slight campfire ash along with a floral lift. Very smooth, especially at this stage in life. I prefer this to the regular Bandol. B+/A- 12.5%

Baumard, Coteaux du Layon, cuvee Paon, 1990
Amber, almost fire-orange colored. Leesy pineapple and guava paste nose. Guava paste, butterscotch drops, cheese danish, finishing with apple pomice (like what's left from pressing cider apples). Heady, at 14.5%. Surprisingly balanced, but would be better with a touch more acid and a little less alcohol.
Still, at 19 years old, I'm not complaining too loudly. B+

Basilisco, Aglianico del Vulture, 2003
Sundrenched deep dark black red with heavy glycerin streaks. Brooding nose of dark fruits, eucalyptus, menthol. Dark mass of dark fruits in the mouth, with tar, tobacco, and oak spice. A little better than I feared, (oaky...monster...vintage), but still a monstrous wine. Despite it's strength, I would suggest drinking up if only because my mind says this won't develop added complexity. B+/B 14% Sure hoping the 2004 is better.

Serafin, Gevrey-Chambertin, 2001
Bretty iron rust nose. Iron, liquid children's vitamins, blood pudding, and a bretty note that wasn't in an earlier bottle. Very much like licking rusty iron splayed with beef blood. Tough as nails. A manly wine. This actually improves the second day, for those 'wait-and-see' folks, and a previous bottle was much better so it could be either bottle variation or evolution. B

Monastero Suore Cistercensi S.O. Trappiste, 'Coenobium', 2005
Light, occluded pear gold colored. Pear aromas, both eau-de-vie and pearskin, not as freshly aromatic as earlier bottle. In the mouth, mashed cooked peas, pear, and an alcoholic astringency, with cut lemon slices on the finish. Simple, but honest. Just better earlier. B/B+ 12.5%

Marcarini, Barolo 'la Serra', 1998
I'm a little unclear why netizens keep hyping Marcairini's wines. Oh sure, I have a stableful of them too, but have never found one to be truly outstanding or something that I would be awestruck by. Mind you, I'm not talking Giacosa or Cascina Francia good, but something in the direction of "...hmmm, this is damn good nebbiolo". And so far, that moment hasn't come. Which is a shame, because for the price of these ($40-50), this is damned to be middle-market Barolo: pleasing, but not exquisite. I'd rather have something cheaper (to save the pocket something), or more expensive (to please the palate). This just doesn't cut it. Anyway, on to the note: mentholated cherry Vick's Vapor rub nose. Thin and austere palate prescence with a short finish. Light tannins that still grip, unflattering at the momment, no great transformation expected either. Merely okay. 14% B/slight B+
Last edited by Mark S on Wed Jun 10, 2009 3:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Keith M

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Re: WTN: European sun

by Keith M » Wed Jun 10, 2009 3:02 pm

Mark,

Thanks for the report on the Coenobium. It's very interesting to hear how such a wine develops over time. And great notes--though it is disturbing to be reminded that 1990 was 19 years ago.
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Mark S

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Re: WTN: European sun

by Mark S » Wed Jun 10, 2009 3:23 pm

Keith M wrote:...it is disturbing to be reminded that 1990 was 19 years ago.


shhhhh!!! :mrgreen:
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Paul Winalski

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Re: WTN: European sun

by Paul Winalski » Wed Jun 10, 2009 4:53 pm

Whereabouts is the Trappist monastery that makes the Coenobium? Based on the label language, it's somewhere in Italy?

-Paul W.
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Mark S

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Re: WTN: European sun

by Mark S » Wed Jun 10, 2009 5:00 pm

Paul Winalski wrote:Whereabouts is the Trappist monastery that makes the Coenobium? Based on the label language, it's somewhere in Italy?

-Paul W.



Not sure exactly, but mid-section (Umbria, Lazio) would be a good guess, since that is where most of the varieties live (trebbiano, garnega,etc...)
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Keith M

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Re: WTN: European sun

by Keith M » Wed Jun 10, 2009 5:29 pm

Mark S wrote:
Paul Winalski wrote:Whereabouts is the Trappist monastery that makes the Coenobium? Based on the label language, it's somewhere in Italy?

Not sure exactly, but mid-section (Umbria, Lazio) would be a good guess, since that is where most of the varieties live (trebbiano, garnega,etc...)

It's Lazio. More recent versions have been labeled Lazio IGT instead of VdT. The producer's address is listed as Vitorchiano--not far from Rome.
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Ian Sutton

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Re: WTN: European sun

by Ian Sutton » Wed Jun 10, 2009 5:39 pm

In defence, 1998 can be very tight/austere in Barolo. Even an Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Soprana was underwhelming ~ 2 years ago.

I can recognise what you're saying and I'm not convinced they'll deliver something utterly sublime, but I do find them solid & reliable with genuine typicity and some charm. Possibly we're agreeing on the qualities of the fence from either side of it!

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Ian
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: European sun

by David M. Bueker » Wed Jun 10, 2009 6:39 pm

I have a few bottles of Marcarini, and like you I have never been wowed. But they are good, and they are still affordable if one needs to feed a Barolo jones.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: European sun

by Dale Williams » Thu Jun 11, 2009 10:58 am

OK, someone needs to stand up for Marcarini. I'd count them as one of my favorite producers of fairly traditional Piedmont. Wow? Well, maybe after 20 years (the 78 Brunate!!!!). Truly built for the long haul, even the '93 is on young side. If you're drinking under 15 years I certainly wouldn't expect a lot of pleasure. But for long term I can't think of a better $40-50 Barolo than either the La Serra or Brunate in most vintages. And while I think Giacosa is as close to a god as winemaking gets, his $60 base Barolo/Barbaresco is seldom as good as Marcarini in my opinion.

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