WTN & Q: Vieux Telegraphe ChdP 2005

On the nose this showed red (yet not underripe) blackberries, briar patch, a just-about-to-turn kind of fruit flavour... great ripeness balance. There was a touch black olive, metal, and earth; showing more spirit and prune with air. Lots of deep character going on in a very unassuming way. The palate was slightly syrupy, with fine-grained yet firm tannins, but it was a let down compared to the nose. It seemed a bit tough / unyielding, with a slightly hot and abrupt finish. I've not had much experience with VT, so for those who have plenty of experience with VT: would you put this palate down to the wine simply being way too young (I know this was infanticide), the style, or could it have been a bad (e.g., heat shocked) bottle?

On the nose this showed red (yet not underripe) blackberries, briar patch, a just-about-to-turn kind of fruit flavour... great ripeness balance. There was a touch black olive, metal, and earth; showing more spirit and prune with air. Lots of deep character going on in a very unassuming way. The palate was slightly syrupy, with fine-grained yet firm tannins, but it was a let down compared to the nose. It seemed a bit tough / unyielding, with a slightly hot and abrupt finish. I've not had much experience with VT, so for those who have plenty of experience with VT: would you put this palate down to the wine simply being way too young (I know this was infanticide), the style, or could it have been a bad (e.g., heat shocked) bottle?

Ben, VT La Crau was my first ever CdP, too many years ago to mention, and is still one of my favourite traditional style CdPs- but it has always needed 10+ years to show well IMO.

I only finished my [very good] 94s a while ago and have plenty of my [excellent] 95s left. My 2005s will certainly test my life expectancy so in the absence of knowing the provenance of your bottle it seems possible that the wine just isn't anywhere near ready yet.

Did you decant and give the very young wine plenty of air before this tasting [you mention 'more spirit and prune with air'] and did you keep any for the next day to see how it had developed? OTOH 'syrupy, slightly hot and abrupt finish' doesn't sound very much like other much more complimentary TNs.

On balance my guess is that it is just too early but of course it may have been a bad bottle.

Ben, Hi....

Perhaps my own tasting notes on the two Chateauneuf-du-Pape releases from Vieux Telegraphe will help somewhat.

Best
Rogov

Domaine de Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Le Crau, 2005: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, full bodied and tannic enough to be thought of as chewy, a concentrated and intense wine, but one showing fine balance and structure. Opens with a burst of currant and blackberry fruits, those yielding to blueberries, sweet cedar wood and a variety of Oriental spices that reminds one of China's "Five Spice Mixture". Goes on to a remarkably long finish on which hints of earthy minerals. Approachable by 2010 but best 2012-2030. Score 95. (Tasted 13 Jan 2009)

Domaine de Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Telegramme, 2005: Full-bodied, with softly caressing tannins and a note of smoky wood. On the nose and palate generous red currants and raspberries, those supported nicely by appealing hints of ripe red plums and black licorice. Drink now-2022. Score 92. (Tasted 13 Jan 2009)

Nigel, Rogov, thanks for the input.

Did you decant and give the very young wine plenty of air before this tasting [you mention 'more spirit and prune with air'] and did you keep any for the next day to see how it had developed?

Yes and yes; I tasted it with varying degrees of air (from freshly opened to a day later).

Thanks for your note, Ben; it's hard to comment on your particular bottle, but for what it's worth, I had a well-stored bottle of the 1995 VT last year and it was terrific and still a ways away from full maturity.