A fine Tuscan merlot. Aroma is rich and somewhat modern (the modernity of the nose to be challenged later by very intense acidity), with blackberries, sour plums, coffee, chocolate and moderate vanilla. No leather at first, but it emerges slowly, that very fine kind of leather that only a certain amount of age can produce. Before food, tannins are lively, tending towards a bitter finish that gives me pause. Acidity is strong and astringent: so much acidity with a modern nose gives me further pause, but, no, it can't possibly be manipulated, not with how much I paid for this.
On the plus side, good weight, long finish. With melon and prosciutto di Parma there is no synergy, as might have been expected, but the acidity comes into balance with veal & rosemary ravioli al sugo, as it was designed to do (i.e., in the company of tomatoes). In short, fine but a bit disjointed for the lofty pedigree.