WTN: 6 Burgundies from Naudin-Ferrand

On the whole a pretty interesting bunch from a producer I hadn't heard of before. Sometimes they seem to use a bit more oak than necessary, but largely they let the the Pinosity come through beautifully. I was also happy to see some relatively low abvs on some bottles. Anyone have experience with them? I haven't seen any talk about them.

• 2007 Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Bourgogne-Aligoté Traditionnel - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (6/1/2009)
  11% abv. Lovely wine, crisp, full of citrus aromas, mineral, yet with a more friendly, inviting white fruit character slightly reminiscent of unoaked Chardonnay. Crisp, citrussy palate. Very much fun for those of us who enjoy slight tartness!
• N.V. Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Vin de Table Français A... Naudin 007 - France, Vin de Table Français (6/1/2009)
  11% abv. Very old vines, planted in 1902, so 105 yo, and tiny production of only 743 bottles. Sadly I didn't understand why this isn't sold as Burgundy and Aligoté but rather as VdT. Sadly, I also didn't really enjoy the wine. I don't know what sort of oak this sees, but it clashed with the lovely tartness of the grape even though the actual oak aromas weren't strong. The result was a wine with a schizophrenic personality. Nice to get to taste such a rarity, but sadly it wasn't to my taste.
• 2007 Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Bourgogne - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (6/1/2009)
  From Magny lès Villers, from the lieu-dit "En Daisey"; 12,5% abv; 30yo vines. Quite a nice wine with plenty of brightness and lift to the Pinosity. Some will find it sharp and thin, others, like me, will enjoy the purity of the Pinosity in a lighter, tart frame with proper structure. Perhaps not a wine of immense complexity but it was one that gave me pleasure.
• 2006 Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Orchis Mascula - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune (6/1/2009)
  12% abv. Strangely for a producer that IIRC is "natural" and tends to have relatively low alcohol percentages, the wine smells rather of new oak. Yes, there is nice Pinosity to be seen also, but rather the sweet, dark fruit and oak seem like a "modernist" example of Burgundy. Good grip, racy, despite the oak. I suspect this just needs some time to settle down.
• 2004 Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Côte de Nuits Villages Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages (6/1/2009)
  13%; 50-70 yo vines. Unlike with the '06 Orchis Mascula, the oak had begun to integrate well in this one (though could use more time still) and the Pinosity (of quite a ripe and forward type for the year) was well to the fore. It was on the fleshy side of Burgundy for an '04 with good, sweet, ripe fruit, good acidity, I still don't see the greenness that almost everyone else complains about. Should be pretty nice in a year or two once the oak totally integrates.
• 2001 Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru (6/1/2009)
  13,5% abv; 22 yo vines. Closed scent, in a bad spot now. But it still seems pretty special with some elegant red berry aromas, integrated wood; it seems restrained and poised. I would love to try this when it wakes up. Give it time.

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