WTN: Fine V.N. Asinone, chameleon Arbois Savagnin, Cairanne

Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne “Cuvée Prestige” 2000 – Domaine de l’Oratoire Saint-Martin, Alc. 13.5%, a Grenache dominated blend, used to be a luscious and complex Southern Rhône but, on the evidence of this bottle, is darkening and drying out; still quite enjoyable; 15/20.

Arbois “Grand Elevage” Vieilles Vignes Savagnin 2002 – Rijckaert – Alc. 13%. It was remarkable how this wine showed different facets according to the pairing. In a cod dish, there was a badly interacting ingredient, garlic I think, which brought out a disagreeable cabbage notes which smacked of oxidation (not sought by Rijckaert). However with goat cheese and a mature Beaufort, these notes disappeared entirely and bracing acidity, bright minerals and a racy tangy body of Savagnin fruit remained; with the cod 13/20; with the cheese 16.5/20++.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Asinone” 2000 – Poliziano – Alc.14%, Sangiovese dominated, was the wine of the week. Sweeter fruited than often, full bodied, round and complex but retaining enough Sangiovese tang and leather notes together with a delicious oiliness for its Tuscan class to show through; my wine of the week; 17/20.

Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne “Cuvée Prestige” 2000 – Domaine de l’Oratoire Saint-Martin, Alc. 13.5%, a Grenache dominated blend, used to be a luscious and complex Southern Rhône but, on the evidence of this bottle, is darkening and drying out; still quite enjoyable; 15/20.

Arbois “Grand Elevage” Vieilles Vignes Savagnin 2002 – Rijckaert – Alc. 13%. It was remarkable how this wine showed different facets according to the pairing. In a cod dish, there was a badly interacting ingredient, garlic I think, which brought out a disagreeable cabbage notes which smacked of oxidation (not sought by Rijckaert). However with goat cheese and a mature Beaufort, these notes disappeared entirely and bracing acidity, bright minerals and a racy tangy body of Savagnin fruit remained; with the cod 13/20; with the cheese 16.5/20++.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Asinone” 2000 – Poliziano – Alc.14%, Sangiovese dominated, was the wine of the week. Sweeter fruited than often, full bodied, round and complex but retaining enough Sangiovese tang and leather notes together with a delicious oiliness for its Tuscan class to show through; my wine of the week; 17/20.

Yipes. Showed better than my 2001! I am wondering, though, if it was MY fault for finding it over the hill. And, repeating myself, we all finished the bottle. (Better tangy, over the hill sangio than sweet spoof juice! )

Interesting, Brian. I would expect a 2001 to be more age-worthy than a 2000 with better structure and less sweet fruit. I know that I have some 99 and maybe also some 01 but I will have to search for it in my chaotic cellar.

Yipes. Showed better than my 2001! I am wondering, though, if it was MY fault for finding it over the hill. And, repeating myself, we all finished the bottle. (Better tangy, over the hill sangio than sweet spoof juice! )

... or the bottle/vintage's fault for not being up to scratch. Lots of possible answers.