1996 Domaine Joseph Chamonard Morgon Le Clos de Lys 12.5%
The report on my trip to Paris this February could have been called "Looking for Chamonard" because this was, at the time, the only Gang of Five producer not imported in the US, so finding it became a test of a wine shop or restaurant's depth of comprehensiveness. So, while browsing at Chambers Street last month, imagine my surprise at running into a solitary bottle of 96 (!!!) Morgon from Chamonard. Imported by a new kid on the block, Savio Soares Selections, whose website shows a promising ethos.
Definitely the oldest Beaujolais I have ever tried, I expected this to be Moregone than Morgon. The bottle and label looked pristine, suggesting recent bottling from the domaine (an email to the importer remained unanswered at press time). Color was a light but dullish garnet, still somewhat youthful. Aromas were lovely, to my pleasure and surprise. Cherry, spice, violets and a touch of funk. Before food, excellent acid grip, filling mouth weight, fruit still very much alive, even kicking, with a hint of bitterness in the finish and a touch of burnt rubber that soon wafted away. After food, complete equilbrium. Marcia kept nudging me for more. A really good experience, and eloquent testimony that wines with little or no SO2 can last. Drunk with Ossau Iraty and Boucheron, bread and salad.