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WTN: Impressive NZ syrah, good Loire crémant, Smaragd, etc.

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Tim York

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WTN: Impressive NZ syrah, good Loire crémant, Smaragd, etc.

by Tim York » Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:02 pm

Bilancia Syrah 2004 – Leheny Gibson, Hawkes Bay – Alc. 13.5%, with a touch of Viognier and closed by screwcap, is in the race to be the best Syrah derived wine which I have had from outside France (tough competition from Fontodi in Tuscany, some from Valais and Clonakilla). Aromatics and fruit were from the same family as Northern Rhône, steely cherry and ivy, but was somewhat sweeter, thicker in texture, perhaps more generous. Body was quite full and tannic structure ripe. Still quite primary in flavour so I guess that there may still be improvement potential; 16.5/20.

Wachauer Riesling Smaragd 2006 – Freier Weingärtner Wachau – Alc. 13%, cork branded Domäne Wachau http://www.domaene-wachau.at/Start.48.0.html?&L=2 . I guess that this is a below the radar entry level Riesling Smaragd but it was very enjoyable being quite full with well developed aromatics including touches of petrol, lively acidity and crisp minerals and was mercifully free of that touch of burn which I sometimes meet on ambitious Austrian Riesling and GV; 16/20.

Langlois Crémant de Loire Brut – Langlois Château – Alc 12.5% - (approx. €12), made from Chenin, Chardonnay and CabFranc, bids fair, along with Foreau’s Vouvray, to be the best bubbly which I have had from outside Champagne. Crisply acidic, biscuity with white fruit and flowers, minerals and good length. Better that most NV Champagne; 16/20++.

Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise Cuvée Spéciale RG 2006 – Domaine de Durban – Alc. 15%, a sweet fortified wine, was bought for use in cooking. We consumed the remainder over about 10 days and it got better for at least 7. It showed the typically smooth and aromatic Muscat flavours, if a bit bland at first, but the fruit grew more complex with peach and apricot whilst spice notes including some refreshing ginger came out; 15.5/20++.
Last edited by Tim York on Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: WTN: Impressive NZ syrah, good Loire crémant, Smaragd, etc.

by Salil » Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:13 pm

Nice lineup, Tim. I really like the Syrahs being produced in Hawkes Bay right now - Bilancia is doing some lovely stuff, and their special bottling 'La Collina' is really phenomenal (in flavour very much like a higher end Cote-Rotie - unfortunately the price is in the same range). Trinity Hill is another producer worth searching out with the same winemaking team (Leheny/Gibson) who're also making some killer reds in the Gimblett Gravels area.
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Re: WTN: Impressive NZ syrah, good Loire crémant, Smaragd, etc.

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:16 pm

The Langlois is here along with the 100% Cab Franc sparkling called Carmin Dry. Will make sure I sample yours at the upcoming DeVines staff BBQ!!

You found the Syrah locally Tim?
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Re: WTN: Impressive NZ syrah, good Loire crémant, Smaragd, etc.

by Tim York » Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:20 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:You found the Syrah locally Tim?


No, Bob. The Syrah came from Harvey Nicks.
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Re: WTN: Impressive NZ syrah, good Loire crémant, Smaragd, etc.

by John S » Wed Jul 01, 2009 2:00 pm

I agree, Hawkes Bay syrah/shiraz can be very impressive. I really liked Trinity Hill's Hommage (but not the price), and Unison, Craggy Range and Church Road also made great syrahs in 2006 and 2007. Shiraz from South African and NZ examples both seem to be really improving, and are relatively cool climate examples miles away from the typical Ozzie style (i.e., Barossa and McLaren Vale) that many people have become accustomed to. Not that there's anything wrong with that style - it's just different!

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