WTN: 2007 Henry of Pelham Baco Noir (Ontario VQA)

I was eager to try the '07 version of this iconic Ontarian hybrid red - this flagship Baco - and tonight I did.

Solid, high-quality natural cork closure, as always. 13% alc./vol. Beautiful, saturated beet-crimson red (indicative of the hot dry vintage that was '07); solid cherry-black hue at the core. With the necessary decanting the wine opens up readily to show hickory smoke, briney/meaty aromas, torrefazione, rustic sour plum and Vitis riparia nuances, all framed by well-apportioned American oak - classic Henry of Pelham Baco. Brisk, sharp acidity on the entry - true to variety - though quite mellow and well balanced on the mid-palate. Cleansing, brisk and fresh mouthfeel. Good structure, mainly carried by the acidity, with some dusty light tannin and astringency from the wood coming into play toward the finish. Spicy oak comes back for an encore before the curtain is drawn.

At $13.95 on general list at the LCBO, it seems to have gone up in price somewhat over previous years' vintages; but the quality is all there, both in terms of vintage and winemaking.

Thanks Paul, was wondering if you were going to post on the newer vintage. I am still enjoying my splits of the`06 for $9.95!!

Sounds like some time in the cellar might be of advantage?

Paul, any idea how the 2004 vintage is progressing? I have a 2004 Henry of Pelham Baco Reserve waiting ...

The thing about this red is that it is pretty consistent most years in terms of quality. Baco can have a sourness in the best of vintages, but in hot years like '07, there is additional depth and stuffing to round that out. Plus, Henry of Pelham puts effort into these wines and you can taste the style in them.

2004 ... hard to say. I don't cellar this wine myself, though I can't see why it wouldn't be very fine right now. '04 had a cool/rainy start to the ripening season, but then some nice dry sunny weather in October. Not sure when they harvested the Baco given that it's one of the earlier varieties.

My experience of the Reserve is that they can age for a few yrs. Not sure about the history of the vintage that year. Peter, I would think drink up soon?

Thing is, Baco has the acidity to carry it a long time in bottle. I had a '94 version of the same wine in early 2005, and although it fell apart by the next day, it was drinking wonderfully for a few hours. Storage conditions, of course, could not be confirmed, so mileage is apt to vary.

Bottom line, though: I think the wine should be very sound if well stored.

Thanks all -- I've not had a Baco since I was in Ontario in Sep 2006

Hi Paul,

I still have that 2004 Henry of Pelham Baco Noir reserve you gave me in my cellar . Do you think it is ready to drink yet? When you gave it to me you said it needed a year or two in the bottle yet.

Tom,

Yes, I would say you'd be just fine trying it now. It's been about 2 years since we meet up, has it? That would have given it time to meld together. As I recall, that particular vintage of the reserve had a lot of stuffing that needed to basically come together. I'd certainly decant it for about an hour before serving.