WTN: Yves Cuilleron and lunch in Ampuis

"We joined Yves in Côte Table, at Le Cercle des Vignerons in Ampuis, and dawdled with him over a leisurely lunch in the land of
slow food, accompanied by three of his wines. Yves, somehow, ended up being flanked by those adoring women, which didn’t hurt his disposition at all. And he was justly proud to show off his splendid wines...."
http://www.violentfermentation.blogspot.com

Yves Cuilleron Condrieu La Petite Cote 2005
Lightly floral, slight honeydew character, seems medium-bodied at first but has a pleasing touch of baby fat (in a 2005!). Yves informs us it’s direct press, with no maceration; as a consequence, it’s a direct and straightforward wine with mellow fruit, with a short, clean finish.

And it nicely suits the first course, an impressive triple layer of salad greens, topped by thin slices of ham, then topped with a light pastry stuffed with hot, herbed goat cheese.


Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Vertige 2006
From a single south-facing vineyard on a steep slope---hence the reference to vertigo. Much more full bodied than the Petite Cote, showing some vanilla lacing around the flowers, white peaches, melons and honeysuckle. More structure, from the 18 months on the lees in barrique. Works beautifully with a river fish sautéed in a butter/herb sauce and tinged with lemon, with rice and grilled eggplant alongside. The wine is sturdy and steps up to the food quite nicely. For those few who still think Viognier is a pleasant, flowery and insubstantial little sipping wine for cocktails, think again: this Viognier has structure, a leesy richness and sufficient acidity to work well with food. Great combination!


Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Liquoreux Ayguets 2007
Now this wine is just plain damned fun! Imagine a flower box, stuffed full of ripe peaches and apricots, and you’ll get close to the smell of this wine. But at first sip the suffused sweetness with a tangy bite of spice kicks in to induce some lip-licking and repeated sipping. Delectable wine, balanced, harmonious, never cloying or oversweet (alcohol and rs are about the same level); with the mildest possible nod to the more stately botrytised behemoths from elsewhere. Wouldn’t mind at all having a few (dozen) bottles of this little sweetie stashed away.

Sounds like fun. And nice to show the diversity and versatility of Viognier. I find the grape very fun but it's just rare to find good examples that are easily available for purchase.

Oh, I'd agree with you there, Rahsaan. It's not like you see Condrieu everywhere you go. Or see it at all in most places.

And yes, you're right, the versatility of these wines was remarkable.

[Jenise]

Your description of the Liquoreux Ayguets 2007 sounds like the first Guigal La Dorianne (sp?) I had from the 94 vintage--apricots and spice. The color reflected those flavors. I was so enchanted--it was someone else's bottle--I ran down to Hi Times and forked over my own $44 to repeat the experience. Alas, the second bottle was nothing like the first--not bad, but pale and normal, if you will, no apricots and no spice. Have never run into anything like it again until reading your note. Which is neither here nor there, except to say that you to be much envied for that experience.

Nowadays, Jenise, I think the La Doriane is always finished dry.

Guigal does have a Condrieu Luminescence that is made from over-ripe (and sometimes but not always botrytised) grapes. I checked the stuff I had from them and saw the latest they did had a residual at about 18%----but we didn't taste any sweetie pies at Guigal.

I really do believe you would have loved the Cuilleron Ayguets, what with the balance of alcohol and sugar, the low alcohols, the velvety fruit but the decent acidity (and Condrieu is tough to keep the acidity and not get that bitter skins quality). Cuilleron does a fine, fine job---or at least he did with this one.

Really nice notes, Hoke. I've enjoyed Condrieu on the few occasions when I've had it - recall Cuilleron's 05 La Petite Cote being a real beauty; just that the availability and pricing makes it hard for me to buy it regularly. (On an aside - Jim Mack at Jemrose Vineyards in California is making a killer Viognier that's really up there with a lot of good Condrieu IMO - worth seeking out if you're a fan of this fan).

BTW - have you tried the Andre Perret Clos Chanson? Had it at a mostly-Condrieu offline in Chicago a year ago; probably the most memorable Condrieu I've ever had with a level of elegance, polish and a tremendous minerality that made it amazing to drink.

Salil, I've had neither of the two you mentioned, so thank you, and I'll put them on my mental list to try.

I can't say that I've ever been a big fan of viognier as one of my favorite varieties. That changed, in part when a winery I was working for started with viognier and I more thoroughly investigated the style and range. It changed even more when Mr. Yaniger introduced me to several Vernet Viogs.

I'm impressed by the Cuilleron, primarily because of what the different types show, with their distinct impressions, in his blends and the selections parcellaire. That way you see the best of the winemaker's art, and the best of the single vineyard expression.