WTN: 1997 Beringer Knight's Valley and 2003 Seavey Merlot

1997 Beringer Knight's Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This has always been a pretty distinctive wine to me. It has a very strong green bell pepper/almost a jalapeno juice character. Tonight, we discovered that this character is not new to recent vintages. Bell pepper and jalapeno juice to the max. Also some plum and cassis fruit, but the green tannins were quite powerful. Not sure how to rate this one, given that it was very true to the character of this wine but I'm not sure I really "like it"

2003 Seavey Merlot Napa Valley. This showed better than I expected, frankly...I was expecting a harsh, goop-bomb. Actually, though, the wine was a very nice quaffer, with soft tannins and a lush mouth feel. While the nose had an acrid note that suggested it was a bit over the hill, the palate showed soft plum and some earth and just a whisper of tobacco. I liked the taste-especially that plush mouth feel-better than the nose. I also found it brighter and lighter in the mouth than the comments about flabbiness might suggest. Not a big fan of Napa Valley Merlot, but I would rate this a solid 87 points-performed above expectations and about where Cellar Tracker comments suggested it should.

I did not find the oak excessive at 6 years of age (as in some Cellartracker comments), but true quercaphobes' mileage may vary.

[David M. Bueker]

I always thought that the Beringer Knight's Valley was the Sociando-Mallet of Cal Cab. I really like the stuff, but I can understand where many would not.

Just not sure myself, David. I like some green-ness in Cabernet-based wines, but the jalapeno juice character is very odd.

One of the best red wines and cabs I've ever had was the 1996 Beringer Knights Valley! However, it was "best" to me for more the opposite reasons - it was FREE of the "green/vegetal" characteristics that I typically DON'T like in reds/cabs. Instead it was lush, thick and very mouth coating in tannins (which is always a most positive trait in my eyes and rather surprised me for a "supermarket" wine). Yeah, it was probably a bit TOO ripe as I recall and would surely be labeled as a bit "over the top" as most these kind of wines are but, when the tannins are that abundant and the overall body that plush and filling it's hard for me to say I wasn't unashamedly enjoying it! In fact, that was the wine that years ago turned me on to the over-indulgent bliss of Beringer as a whole (at least when they're good rather than "green") and got me into some of the "Private Reserve" bottlings, a handful of which I still have cellaring and yet to try.

Of course other bottles of Knights Valley have never seemed to touch that '96. I don't know if that was just a randomly "perfect" bottle uncorked at just the perfect stage or if they all were that deliciously lush and chalky? I do know I wish I had bought a few more bottles to find out but who knew. I only had the pleasure of drinking that single one.

Jeff

I am wondering more and more about vintage character. Many of the (still too few) vaunted 1997 vintage that I have had a chance to taste have not held up very well and have even had this thin character.

The hated 1998s, though....

1997 Beringer Knight's Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This has always been a pretty distinctive wine to me. It has a very strong green bell pepper/almost a jalapeno juice character. Tonight, we discovered that this character is not new to recent vintages. Bell pepper and jalapeno juice to the max. Also some plum and cassis fruit, but the green tannins were quite powerful. Not sure how to rate this one, given that it was very true to the character of this wine but I'm not sure I really "like it"

2003 Seavey Merlot Napa Valley. This showed better than I expected, frankly...I was expecting a harsh, goop-bomb. Actually, though, the wine was a very nice quaffer, with soft tannins and a lush mouth feel. While the nose had an acrid note that suggested it was a bit over the hill, the palate showed soft plum and some earth and just a whisper of tobacco. I liked the taste-especially that plush mouth feel-better than the nose. I also found it brighter and lighter in the mouth than the comments about flabbiness might suggest. Not a big fan of Napa Valley Merlot, but I would rate this a solid 87 points-performed above expectations and about where Cellar Tracker comments suggested it should.

I did not find the oak excessive at 6 years of age (as in some Cellartracker comments), but true quercaphobes' mileage may vary.

Brian, the 95 was the last vintage I bought multiple bottles of this wine, and even then I wished I had not. before then I was a Beringer slut. It is my opinion that Beringer, and a bunch of other winemakes have expanded their lines so much that their line is just not worth buying on a consistent basis. Of these I include Beringer, Mondavi, and Penfolds. Of course those aren't the ONLY ones, but it gives you the idea of where I am.

[David M. Bueker]

Bob,

Wines like the Knight's Valley (and Private Reserve Cab to name another) are the same wine they always were. I was sort of joking on the green/Sociando thing, but the Knight's Valley for the most part is still recognizably Cabernet. (I say much the same about Mondavi's Cabernet & Reserve.)

I do wonder why we would expect a mid-level wine to last more than 10 years. If we put it in perspective, the great cabs of the '70s (e..g Mayacamas, Heitz Martha's) were a very small subset. The great cabs of the '90s and new millennium are still a small subset, and most wines are still best on release or a few years after.

One of the best red wines and cabs I've ever had was the 1996 Beringer Knights Valley! However, it was "best" to me for more the opposite reasons - it was FREE of the "green/vegetal" characteristics that I typically DON'T like in reds/cabs. Instead it was lush, thick and very mouth coating in tannins (which is always a most positive trait in my eyes and rather surprised me for a "supermarket" wine). Yeah, it was probably a bit TOO ripe as I recall and would surely be labeled as a bit "over the top" as most these kind of wines are but, when the tannins are that abundant and the overall body that plush and filling it's hard for me to say I wasn't unashamedly enjoying it! In fact, that was the wine that years ago turned me on to the over-indulgent bliss of Beringer as a whole (at least when they're good rather than "green") and got me into some of the "Private Reserve" bottlings, a handful of which I still have cellaring and yet to try.

Of course other bottles of Knights Valley have never seemed to touch that '96. I don't know if that was just a randomly "perfect" bottle uncorked at just the perfect stage or if they all were that deliciously lush and chalky? I do know I wish I had bought a few more bottles to find out but who knew. I only had the pleasure of drinking that single one.

Jeff

Jeff,
I have some 91 and 94 KV and if you tell me you will come to Mo'Cool, I will throw a bottle of each in the truck and bring them for a taste of what KV used to be.

One of the best red wines and cabs I've ever had was the 1996 Beringer Knights Valley! However, it was "best" to me for more the opposite reasons - it was FREE of the "green/vegetal" characteristics that I typically DON'T like in reds/cabs. Instead it was lush, thick and very mouth coating in tannins (which is always a most positive trait in my eyes and rather surprised me for a "supermarket" wine). Yeah, it was probably a bit TOO ripe as I recall and would surely be labeled as a bit "over the top" as most these kind of wines are but, when the tannins are that abundant and the overall body that plush and filling it's hard for me to say I wasn't unashamedly enjoying it! In fact, that was the wine that years ago turned me on to the over-indulgent bliss of Beringer as a whole (at least when they're good rather than "green") and got me into some of the "Private Reserve" bottlings, a handful of which I still have cellaring and yet to try.

Of course other bottles of Knights Valley have never seemed to touch that '96. I don't know if that was just a randomly "perfect" bottle uncorked at just the perfect stage or if they all were that deliciously lush and chalky? I do know I wish I had bought a few more bottles to find out but who knew. I only had the pleasure of drinking that single one.

Jeff

Jeff,
I have some 91 and 94 KV and if you tell me you will come to Mo'Cool, I will throw a bottle of each in the truck and bring them for a taste of what KV used to be.

If they are as luscious and chalky as that 96 I'd love it! I doubt I'll be able to attend this year but thanks for the offer! I'd actually love to try them! Perhaps you can just have a second glass for me in my place

In the meantime, I do have a 94 Private Reserve in my own cellar of which I've "heard" good things about. I'm not sure why I haven't opened it yet. And also a few more recent vintages of who knows what might unveil... I believe they are 2002 and 2003 but would have to double check... But I admit I don't have any experience with Beringers pre-1994... The mid 90's ones alone (particularly that one 96 won me over by itself however). I have realized that ones from late 90's to present (Knights Valley anyways) have not been what I recall from that 1996. The handful of "recent" bottles I've had were more light and with the "greener" profiles. It isn't the hedonistic pleasure I recall from the few mid 90's vintages I tried. I'm sure it is a case of them just being too dilluted and widespread nowadays, as you mentioned above. I have a feeling I got bit by their charm right at the very end before they went south, so to speak... But it was better late than never I guess - I do have those memories of a few noteworthy bottles! I'm hoping the newer Private Reserve bottles may still hold some of their old charm? I haven't tried these. My asessment of Beringer not being what I recall from the mid 90's bottles was based solely on my sampling of just the Knights Valley bottlings. I suspect the newer Private Reserve's are probably less indulgent than the "old days" as well but I would expect they'll be at least a bit more memorable than the Knights Valley ones. But I could be wrong? I guess the only way to find out is pop the cork on one or two....

Jeff

Bob,

Wines like the Knight's Valley (and Private Reserve Cab to name another) are the same wine they always were. I was sort of joking on the green/Sociando thing, but the Knight's Valley for the most part is still recognizably Cabernet. (I say much the same about Mondavi's Cabernet & Reserve.)

I do wonder why we would expect a mid-level wine to last more than 10 years. If we put it in perspective, the great cabs of the '70s (e..g Mayacamas, Heitz Martha's) were a very small subset. The great cabs of the '90s and new millennium are still a small subset, and most wines are still best on release or a few years after.

I think I would agree with you, David...given my limited experience. I would add the better Beaulieu lineup to this list, perhaps even more so. Even in the hot vintage of 2004, the Beaulieu GdlT is recognizably drier and more old school than many newer "cult" wines.

I would agree also vis a vis a wine in this price range lasting ten years is in itself a small miracle. Even today these wines cost, I believe, in the $20s. That's what was so great about the oppportunity to try it!

[David M. Bueker]

I very much like the Beaulieu Georges de la Tour as well. I have a history with that wine, since many of the older guys in my tasting group bought it back in the '60s and '70s. I've been lucky enough to taste the '68, '70, '74, '75, '78, '80, '81, '84 and on into the '90s.

I haven't had a GdlT from the new millenium yet.

Brian, the 95 was the last vintage I bought multiple bottles of this wine, and even then I wished I had not. before then I was a Beringer slut.

Bob,

How I miss the days back in the mid to late 1990’s when you and I were singing the praises of the ’90-’94 Beringer KV Cabs during Sunday chat. Two sluts just extolling the virtues of what was a great QPR California Cabernet. Like you, I was immensely disappointed with the ’95 and, after tasting several vintages after that, conclude they went downhill post ’94. There seemed to be an obvious change in quality and perhaps that was the result of an attempt to keep the wine under a certain price ceiling.

I am glad to hear you still have some from that great era. Sadly, mine are all gone.

[Jenise]

I am wondering more and more about vintage character. Many of the (still too few) vaunted 1997 vintage that I have had a chance to taste have not held up very well and have even had this thin character.

The hated 1998s, though....

The Spectator made, and wrongly called, that vintage IMO. They were in there "no such thing as too ripe" phase especially for early drinking which in fact seemed all they cared about, and they may still be unrepentant, but it was the vintage that caused me to let my subscription lapse and turn to other sources. '97 was a ridiculously overripe vintage, a category for which they didn't, and still don't, have a descriptor.

I very much like the Beaulieu Georges de la Tour as well. I have a history with that wine, since many of the older guys in my tasting group bought it back in the '60s and '70s. I've been lucky enough to taste the '68, '70, '74, '75, '78, '80, '81, '84 and on into the '90s.

I haven't had a GdlT from the new millenium yet.

The 60s and 70s were staples on my wine lists in California. I think the '68 was the earliest I ever offered. Of course, Andre Tchelistcheff was still at BV then.

I cooked a meal for him - and a large group of winemakers honoring him - in the city of Napa right around the time he retired from BV. '73 as I recollect. I think - the memory goes - I was given some of the first wine from the Carneros region to use in the meal's preparation.

One of the best red wines and cabs I've ever had was the 1996 Beringer Knights Valley! However, it was "best" to me for more the opposite reasons - it was FREE of the "green/vegetal" characteristics that I typically DON'T like in reds/cabs. Instead it was lush, thick and very mouth coating in tannins (which is always a most positive trait in my eyes and rather surprised me for a "supermarket" wine). Yeah, it was probably a bit TOO ripe as I recall and would surely be labeled as a bit "over the top" as most these kind of wines are but, when the tannins are that abundant and the overall body that plush and filling it's hard for me to say I wasn't unashamedly enjoying it! In fact, that was the wine that years ago turned me on to the over-indulgent bliss of Beringer as a whole (at least when they're good rather than "green") and got me into some of the "Private Reserve" bottlings, a handful of which I still have cellaring and yet to try.

Of course other bottles of Knights Valley have never seemed to touch that '96. I don't know if that was just a randomly "perfect" bottle uncorked at just the perfect stage or if they all were that deliciously lush and chalky? I do know I wish I had bought a few more bottles to find out but who knew. I only had the pleasure of drinking that single one.

Jeff

Jeff,
I have some 91 and 94 KV and if you tell me you will come to Mo'Cool, I will throw a bottle of each in the truck and bring them for a taste of what KV used to be.

I, too, bought the KV in the early 90s. I liked it a lot. Mine's all gone.