by Daniel Rogov » Mon Sep 07, 2009 4:19 am
For quite a few years Israel used Petite Sirah to make wines most charitably referred to as "mediocre". The scene has changed considerably, however, and although the vast majority of Petite Sirah makes its way into various blends, about a decade ago vintners come to realize that Petite could be used to make some fine varietal wines, especially when the grapes came from older vines, especially those discovered in long-abused and untended vineyards. Low yield, deep concentration and some delicious wines resulted. Just as a sampling – my tasting notes for some of the better Petite Sirah wines of Israel.
Best
Rogov
Avidan, Petite Sirah, 2006: Deep garnet, full-bodied, with ripe and supple tannins. Opens with a mint-like nose, going on to plums, blueberries and huckleberry fruits, all backed up by light hints of spices and grilled meat. Drink now-2011. Score 89.
Carmel, Petite Sirah, Old Vines, Regional, Judean Hills, 2007: Aged for 14 months in oak, partly new, partly used, made from 35+-year-old vines, a concentrated and full-bodied red, showing royal purple in color and with generous tannins in fine balance with spicy and vanilla-rich wood. On the nose and palate a fine array of red and black fruits, those complemented by notes of black pepper, olives and Mediterranean herbs. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K
Ella Valley Vineyards, Petite Sirah, 2007: The winery’s first release of a Petite Sirah varietal wine. Made from grapes from ten–year-old vines, intensely dark royal purple in color, showing generous tannins and fine fruit concentration. On the nose and palate blackberries, raspberries and loganberry fruits, those matched nicely by notes of mint and tobacco. Firm and chewy with a long, near muscular finish. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K
Recanati, Petite Sirah-Zinfandel, Reserve, 2007: Medium-to full-bodied, dark, almost impenetrable garnet, opens with black fruits and a gentle note of spicy wood. Goes on in the glass to reveal red berry and light leathery and peppermint notes. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K
Sea Horse, Munch, 2006: Petite Sirah at its best. Dark, almost impenetrably inky garnet in color, full-bodied, concentrated and intense, showing generous wood and mouth-coating tannins, those in fine balance with red plum, blueberry and currant fruits. Give this one time and it will prove supple, ripe and rich. Drink now–2012. Score 91.
Vitkin, Petite Sirah, 2007: Opens with the traditional rich huckleberry, boysenberry and blackberry notes that we have come to associate with the better wines of this variety. And then kick in minerals, chocolate-covered cherries and firm, somewhat chunky, country-style tannins that rise and linger very nicely on the long finish. Drink now–2012. Score 90.