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WTN: Loire, Alsace, Jura, Bojo, Madiran, Cahors, Jurançon

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Saina

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WTN: Loire, Alsace, Jura, Bojo, Madiran, Cahors, Jurançon

by Saina » Thu Sep 10, 2009 4:18 pm

I was invited to taste some wines imported by Vinature - a company that has imported to Finland only organic and "natural" wines. Generally I find their range very interesting, though inevitably they do have some that I am not too keen on.

We started with a flight of whites:

  • 2008 Domaine Yves Martin Sancerre Chavignol - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre (9/10/2009)
    A very attractive Sancerre, mineral and grassy, an elegant style. Good body and freshness, has both ripeness and crispness. Balanced and complete. I liked it.
  • 2005 Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé (9/10/2009)
    Once again, I fail to understand the hype attached to this producer. A perfectly adequate, grapefruit scent, a bit shy despite having a few years' age, so I was expecting something more forward. Good acidity, good body, but I was bored by it.
  • 2006 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé Pur Sang - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé (9/10/2009)
    A producer that perplexes me: everyone seems to praise them, but I find them boring and/or too oaky. This was too oaky. I thought the nice green aromas that the grape can have clash horribly with oak, so I found this quite off-putting.
  • 2005 Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé Silex - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Pouilly-Fumé (9/10/2009)
    Still not my favoured style of Sauvignon Blanc, but far better balanced than the Pur Sang '06 beside it. The oak was more to the background, it was more mineral and showed the grape more obviously. Full body, good acidity, more oak on the palate than on the scent. Here I see what the fuss is about though I still don't enjoy the style.
  • 2006 Vincent Carême Vouvray Tendre Le Peu Morier - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (9/10/2009)
    This was a nice wine! The scent was a bit closed, but it seemed perfectly typical of the grape with some quince aromas. Slightly sweet and weighty but with good enough acidity that it should work very well on the table - it isn't too heavy. Good!
  • 2007 André Stentz Riesling Rosenberg - France, Alsace, Alsace AOC (9/10/2009)
    A forward scent, perhaps a touch of botrytis?, pure Riesling aromas. Forceful and dry (or almost so - it might have a touch of RS), but rich and racy. Nice stuff!
  • 2004 Domaine Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (9/10/2009)

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    13% abv. It's been about two years since I last tasted this. Back then I noted that it was otherwise fine except that the oak was a bit too obvious. It seemed rather oaky on opening but a few hours open did wonders. It is a pure Chardonnay aroma, very citrussy and bright. Very crisp, good acidity, persistent and true to the grape. The oak is still showing on the palate, though. If the oak continues to disappear like this, I might give unreserved praise in a few years. It isn't as filled with personality as Stéphane Tissot's Chardonnays, so they continue to be my favoured Chardonnay in the Jura.


Then followed a set of reds:
  • 2007 Domaine du Vissoux / Pierre-Marie Chermette Moulin-à-Vent Les Trois Roches - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent (9/10/2009)

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    Strangely for a 2007 Gamay, I felt this needs more time. All others I have had have been absolutely wonderful even in this infant stage, but this was lactic and grumpy. It had lovely raspberry fruit and some gravelly savouryness. Dense and chewy palate, quite tannic for Gamay. The finish is pleasantly light and lifted but otherwise it seems rather grumpy and doesn't want to wake up. I think I like this - perhaps even very much - but I caught it in an inexpressive moment.
  • 2006 Domaine Tissot (André & Mireille now Stéphane) Côtes du Jura En Barberon - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (9/10/2009)

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    12,5% abv. Though I usually prefer other grapes in the Jura, I found this PN very attractive. The scent was of pure Pinosity in an elegant yet sexy and spicy style. Medium body, good acidity, quite strong tannins for the grape (but I don't mind that). Clean and refreshing finish. Lovely!
  • 2005 Château d'Aydie Madiran - France, Southwest France, Madiran (9/10/2009)
    The scent was a bit reductive and plastic. It had dark fruit and a general savoury character. Quite full body, soft but plentiful tannins, the very high alcohol (14,5% abv) was amazingly well integrated. Hard and not giving much when given so little air. All the pieces seemed to be there so it would have been nice to try this with a bit of air.
  • 2002 Château du Cèdre Cahors Le Cèdre - France, Southwest France, Cahors (9/10/2009)
    A rather oaky and anonymous scent of dark fruit; nicely meaty palate but still a bit anonymous. It seems that Cahors is going the Bordeaux route and making everything taste alike, spoofulated and boring?


And finally a lonely sweetie:
  • 2004 Domaine de Souch Jurançon Marie-Kattalin - France, Southwest France, Jurançon (9/10/2009)
    18 months in Barriques! Well, it is a spicy wine smelling of oranges and exotic fruit. Full bodied and sweet, spicy. Fun in small amounts!
I don't drink wine because of religious reasons ... only for other reasons.

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