‘Little different notes this time . . .
I tasted some interesting wines recently, among them the 2008 Dom. La Quilla, Muscadet which was a taut, vibrant wine with the kind of clean, crisp delivery one expects from good recent vintage Muscadet.
Steve’s first incarnation of his Edmund’s St. John, Heart of Gold (2007 right?) was absolutely delicious with a Chinese vegetable salad and pretty nice even by itself. The last bottle I had was a little closed and hard but not this one. I do like vermentino.
I hesitate to even mention the 2008 Soliste, Rosé as it is sold out, but a friend made the wine and he should get some props for what may be the only pinot noir saignée I have ever liked. Very pretty juice with wild strawberry, watermelon and mineral flavors - deft enough to be good cool in a stem and flavorful enough to be good over ice in an old-fashion glass. It matches all sorts of food.
At a party, I tasted through the last six vintages of the SQN, Pinot Noirs (I can’t keep track of the names); the only one that was remotely palatable was the 2003 which probably explains why I don’t bother with the names. I admit that big alcohol, extracted pinot just isn’t my thing but these were flabby and monotone as well – a lot of money to spend on something so simple.
Two wines, however, deserve a bit more consideration.
First: 1996 Dom. Roumier, Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière:
Perfect cork; balsamic and cooked fruit nose, some high tones and a bit of secondary development; lean in the mouth with some of the balsamic notes and a bit attenuated, sharp acidity – despite all that, some solid fruit with enough depth and intensity to suggest Morey; slightly drying finish with a bit of VA. My description doesn’t sound all that good and compared to a recent ’99 Drouhin, Volnay, this wine falls short – did get better the more air it got but never rose to its price point.
I know there are a few folks (most with a lot more experience than I with this bottling) that will say that I am ten years or so too early opening this. And who am I to dispute that.
But the balsamic notes suggested some tiring – not just hard or closed. And the drying finish made me think that this may never be what I would have expected. I have a bottle or two left in the cellar so we’ll see – I won’t be into them anytime soon.
Second: 2001 F. X. Pichler, Riesling ReserveM:
Honeyed fruit and loads of lemon custard on the nose with solid minerality; immense body, depth and concentration in the mouth, some RS, tongue-coating acidity and despite the “out-sizedness” of all of the above, good balance; endless finish. Auslese body and texture with kabinett sweetness; a full-throttle example of the variety. Awesome wine and not for the everyday.
It may sound inconsistent to laud this wine and dis the SQN’s but size alone was not determinative. This is a massive wine (although I think F. X. would say “monumental” is what the M means) but it also has complexity, character and a backbone that belie its size and weight. As is often the case, great wine is a paradox; size but balance, plush but refreshing, big bodied but bright. I had a glass without food and enjoyed it but it was off the charts with a lentil and kale dish Diane dreamed up.
One could do worse than to have these wines to try.
Best, Jim
