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WTN: Corked Catoir, phenomenal Adam, more fun stuff

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Salil

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WTN: Corked Catoir, phenomenal Adam, more fun stuff

by Salil » Tue Sep 29, 2009 9:15 am

Dinner at Szechuan Gourmet with Gene Vilensky and Jay Miller. Lots of fun as usual with great company, some seriously good Szechuan food (we started with a pan seared pork dumplings and steamed pork dim sum with chili, garlic and soy sauce; moved onto thin-sliced pork belly with leek, stir fried chicken with chilli and crispy lamb with cumin for the main course and stuffed ourselves), and a great mix of wines - perhaps too many, as the three of us got a lot of strange looks from the surrounding tables. :)

2007 Van Volxem Saar Riesling
This really hits well above its 'entry level' status (in terms of Van Volxem's dry wines) with serious depth, complexity and focus to the flavours here - this starts out with dried peach, pear and citrus fruit flavours over stony minerals, and with time floral and smoky elements emerge with the minerality becoming more and more pronounced. Really good acidity underneath, delicious.

1996 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Riserva Toscana IGT
Really elegant and gentle, lovely to follow over the course of the meal (although a bit too light to really match the spicier dishes on the table) with savoury cherries, raspberry, earth and black tea flavours lifted by bright acidity.

2001 Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese '2134'
Jay brought this knowing my liking for older Catoir wines... unfortunately this was hideously corked. Groooaaan. Tragic.

2004 Muller-Catoir Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Spatlese
Starts out more like a rich, sweet Riesling than a Scheurebe with ripe peach and other white fruited flavours, but after some time the Scheurebe spice and herbal elements start to come through on the back end. Certainly tasty and a nice match with the food, although for a Catoir Scheurebe (even if not one from Hans-Gunter Schwarz, as I have liked some of the recent vintages) this was really underwhelming.

2003 AJ Adam Dhronhofberger 'Tholey' Riesling Auslese
A note on the label; 'Tholey' is written in small script (much like the single parcel designations in a few of the Muller-Catoir or Selbach-Oster bottlings), so I'm guessing it's a subset of the Dhronhofberger vineyard.
Onto what's in the glass - this is stunning. A really superb Auslese; fantastic aromatics of lilacs, smoke, savoury leesy notes and bright white fruited flavours with touches of honey and tremendous balance and depth in the mouth - rather than coming across as tropical-sweet or soft like a lot of other 03s I've had (Willi Schaefer's aside), this feels almost chewy and firm with more acidity than I expected and an incredibly long finish. A wow wine (and easily the best '03 German I've had).
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Corked Catoir, phenomenal Adam, more fun stuff

by David M. Bueker » Tue Sep 29, 2009 9:26 am

Salil - isn't Tholey a type of slate?
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Re: WTN: Corked Catoir, phenomenal Adam, more fun stuff

by Salil » Tue Sep 29, 2009 9:29 am

I believe so, although in this case it seems to refer to a specific parcel. I just looked up David Schildknecht's notes on this - he wrote (in the review for the Spatlese): "The 2003 Dhronhofberger Riesling Spatlese Tholey – named for a blue slate and quartzite parcel once owned by the Tholey monastery..."
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Re: WTN: Corked Catoir, phenomenal Adam, more fun stuff

by David M. Bueker » Tue Sep 29, 2009 9:40 am

Perhaps the local slate name is due to that particular kind of slate being found in that parcel.
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Re: WTN: Corked Catoir, phenomenal Adam, more fun stuff

by Dale Williams » Tue Sep 29, 2009 11:01 am

thanks for notes, I agree re the 07 Van Volxem.
Too bad about the '01 Catoir Spatlese, but I think Jay just got some of the Kab on WB (or at least he was winning when I saw them, I don't bid against guys I know), so he can open those for you.
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Re: WTN: Corked Catoir, phenomenal Adam, more fun stuff

by David M. Bueker » Tue Sep 29, 2009 11:13 am

Well I've got plenty of the '2134', so hopefully not all of mine are corked. :twisted:
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