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WTN: 4x4

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Mark S

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WTN: 4x4

by Mark S » Fri Aug 11, 2006 2:58 pm

No, not oak, but a square sensation to 3 of the latest:

Philippe Rossingnol, Gevrey-Chambertin 'vieilles vignes', 1996
A darkish maroon with a lightish rim. Dark forest fruits with smoked campfire game meat with a little spice thrown in. This wine dwells in a deep forest, a chewy dark cherry and sour raspberry flavor. Very masculine. Steely. It's not bad, but not good either at $40. Pass.

Cantalupo, Ghemme 'Collis Breclemae', 1996
Oh look-kee, another '96er! This is dark cherry red colored, with a minty dried rose petal & cherry nose. On the palate is bitter cherry root, coffee grounds, and vanilla-mint. Has an old feel about it, slightly rustic, with gripping tannins. On the end I notice angostura bitters, a bitter orange peel with an alcoholic bite. And I thought Ghemme's were supposed to be the welcome wagon to Piemonte? Pass.

Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin 'Clos de la Chanteniere, 1999
Still light, bright gold colored. A subdued nose of pressed cider apples, sunflower & ghee. Yumm: comice pears, golden delicious apples cloaked by a little clovey oak on the finish, this is an elegant mouthful of white Burgundy. The acidity has rounded out due to both vintage character and time-in-bottle, and this has lost perhaps some of it's youthful exuberance, but it is still drinking well, considering. Buy again (if I could find it)

Descendientes de J. Palacios, Petalos del Bierzo, 2003
Having mostly vowed off drinking Spanish wines, I still wanted to try a variety I've never had before (mencia), and found this bottle. My mistake. It's got the color of a 'new' red. The nose is full of redcurrants and sharp flowers. Plenty of tart, unripe raspberries, redcurrants, and slight menthol & green mango in the glass. There's also a burnt sulfur thingy going on, giving this a reduced feeling. The tar note makes me think of the 2004 les Heretiques, which I am not enamored of. A little too extracted, too much wood, or both. A pass, and a continued search for the Real mencia...
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Otto

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Re: WTN: 4x4

by Otto » Fri Aug 11, 2006 5:24 pm

Mark S wrote:Descendientes de J. Palacios, Petalos del Bierzo, 2003
Having mostly vowed off drinking Spanish wines, I still wanted to try a variety I've never had before (mencia), and found this bottle. My mistake. It's got the color of a 'new' red. The nose is full of redcurrants and sharp flowers. Plenty of tart, unripe raspberries, redcurrants, and slight menthol & green mango in the glass. There's also a burnt sulfur thingy going on, giving this a reduced feeling. The tar note makes me think of the 2004 les Heretiques, which I am not enamored of. A little too extracted, too much wood, or both. A pass, and a continued search for the Real mencia...


Yes, quite a bit of wood and even more spoof, but still - on occasion - I rather like this basic Palacios. But I've had a great deal of bottle variation: some being delighfully vegetal and with good acidity; others being stewy and pruny and with no acidity. Unfortunately the 2003 has sold so badly here that we won't be seeing the better 2004. I'd love to see Tares around here - perhaps the QPR in Spain?
I don't drink wine because of religious reasons ... only for other reasons.

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