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Arnt Egil Nordlien

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WTN: Abbazia di Novacella-tasting

by Arnt Egil Nordlien » Wed Mar 29, 2006 6:24 am

Abbazia di Novacella (or Kloster Neustift) is a monastery above Bressano in the northern end of the Valle Isarcko, close to the border of Austria. On the 28th of March 2006, the commercial director of the firm; Marco Scartezzini was in Norway to present some wines from the Abbazia. The vineyard-sites are located at four different places. The Novacella; which makes up the vineyard around the monastery. Here you find the grapes giving white wine; sylvaner, müller-thurgau, kerner, gewürztraminer, pinot grigio, veltliner. The Marklhof estate and vineyard is situated in Colterenzio. Here Abbazia di Novacella vinify all their red wines and plant Schiava, blauburgunder, Moscato rosa and sauvignon blanc. The third site is Kofleitenhof above Bolzano, where they harvest Schiava for St.Magdalener and the last site Mariaheim, west of Bolzano where you will find Abbazia di Novacellas lagrein-vines.
Mostly it is the white wines that are available in the norwegian market, so the tasting would focus on these wines. The Novacella-vineyard is one of the most northernly in Italy and the grapes planted are mostly one you associate with Austria or Germany. The soil here is morenic with some sand. The altitude is 600 meters and above. Besides their normal range of wines Novacella has a range named Praepositus where they have selected the best grapes from old vines (average 40 years). They make a Preapositus sylvaner, kerner, gewürztraminer, Pinot nero riserva, lagrein riserva, moscato rosa and soon also a sauvignon. So to the wines:

Brixner Sylvaner 2004 Novacella
Straw/greenish colour. Typical steel. Clean nose, quite leafy and greenish with some stone. Uncomplicated and nice sylvaner-nose. Medium bodied and again the lightly greeny sylvaner-fruit with a slight bitterness in the finish. A little mineral. Medium acids and length. Some alcohol in the finish. Nice sylvaner.

Brixner Kerner 2004 Novacella
Colour same as above. Semi-aromatic and more floral nose. Lightly balsamic, but also more depth, more mineral and interest here. Powerful in the mouth. Better acids and again better depth and more interesting fruit. Floral and quite aromatic. Again the alcohol is quite high. When I ask Marco Scartezzini says between 14-15%. Interesting kerner.

Praepositus Sylvaner 2004 Novacella
A little deeper colour. Still greenish. While the regulars had only steel this has had a few months in old and large bottes. The nose shows more honey than the regular sylvaner. But still the leafy, greenish and slightly stoney character. Fuller in the mouth, but perhaps lower acids in the balance. Mer interesting than the normal sylvaner and a step up in quality. Again quite high alcohol. Very good sylvaner.

Praepositus Kerner 2004 Novacella
Colour same as the wine above. Nose more flowery and aromatic, but also more minerals. This is very fine indeed. Powerful in the mouth, more concentration and extract. Also higher alcohol (15,5%), but better balance here than the normal kerner. Fine minerals, fine flowery semi-aromatic fruit. Good acids. On the young side. Can really kerner be this good? Very interesting.

Praepositus Gewürztraminer 2004 Novacella
More yellow colour. Aromatic and spicy gewürztraminer-nose. But more leefy, greenish. No sweet lichi-notes. Slight roses. Powerful and more fatness than the kerner with obvious less acids. Dry gewürztraminer with quite a spicy profile and without the sometimes too heavy perfume. But less mineral depth than both the kerner and sylvaner IMO. 15,5% alcohol. Good.

Praepositus Sylvaner 2002 Novacella
A little more yellow colour. Shows a little more evolved. Nose shows the leefy, greenish, stoney side of sylvaner, but with some petrol creeping up and an added complexity. Medium bodied, fine, mature and complex in the mouth. Better balanced with less obvious alcohol here. Good length. Very fine sylvaner that drinks well now.

Praepositus Kerner 2000 Novacella
Colour same as wine above. Complex nose; very mineral; oily, petrolly. Fine evolved aromatics. Faded flowers. Great depth. Full-bodied and better balanced than the 04. Less alcohol, but more extract. Good concentration, very fine fruit, complex and quite evolved. Good acids and length. This is a great wine and clearly the wine of the evening. Damned, no more bashing kerner then.

Gewürztraminer 1997 Novacella
The first vintage for the Praepositus-range was 1998. So this is pre that area. Yellow colour. Again the spicy/aromatic gewürztraminer-nose, but here more evolved with more earthiness and greenish ,leafy notes. Full-bodied and quite fat entrance. But fruit does not show as much depth. Fine balance, spicy, but not very aromatic gewürztraminer. A little step down in quality from the other gewurztraminer. Good.

Praepositus blauburgunder riserva 2002 Marklhof
Aged 13 months in barriques (30/70 new/used). 14% alcohol. Red colour. Nose shows toasted oak, red fruits. Medium bodied. Fine red fruited, but with obvious toasted oak. Too much for me. Fine acids and a quite bitter finish with some greenish hard tannins. Will aging it make it better balanced? I don't think so. A disappointment after the fine whites.

Praepositus Moscato rosa 2004 Marklhof
Red colour. Aromatic moscato-nose. Very typical spicy with hints of red fruits and some anise. Full-bodied and quite sweet (100 g/L. residual sugar) in the mouth. High alcohol (14,5%). But well-balanced and fresh style with fine acids. A nice moscato rosa that is quite serious. Yields for this wine was only 8-10 hl/ha.

To me there is no doubt the whites were the real intersting wines this night. Especially the kerner; that so often is the basis for a lot of totally uninteresting juice. But here in the hands of the Abbazia di Novacella it really showed the quality it is capable of producing. The wines are also said to have a potensial to age well. The sylvaner is also interesting; typical and good. It is probably a wine to drink earlier. The 2002 fine and on top on the tasting. Unfortunately I did not find the blauburgunder to have the same great quality as the whites. The moscato rosa is very fine for it's style. If you like this rare grape it is one to seek out.
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: TN: Abbazia di Novacella-tasting

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Wed Mar 29, 2006 6:50 am

They are all asleep over here as it is two am!! That is one heck of a tasting note, remember we are tasting Austria next month on the WT 101 forum on Netscape. That Kerner sounds really interesting eh.
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Robin Garr

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Re: TN: Abbazia di Novacella-tasting

by Robin Garr » Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:50 am

Arnt Egil Nordlien wrote:Abbazia di Novacella (or Kloster Neustift)


Quite a report, Arnt! Thanks for posting it ... and may I add that it's great to see you back in WLDG. I think the new software has coincided with a homecoming for a lot of folks, and that's A Good Thing.

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