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Bill Hooper

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What is the oldest GV you've tasted?

by Bill Hooper » Sun Aug 27, 2006 3:16 pm

While visiting the Wachau, I picked up a bottle of Domaene Wachau Gruener Veltliner 1977 from their tasting room but haven't tried it yet. It certainly wasn't a great vintage -but it's my birth year (and only 40 Euro), so I couldn't resist! I've always liked the co-op and they're one of the best QPR producers in Austria. My boss has had bottles from the '37 and '42 vintages (I didn't ask which producer) and said that they didn't pick up any of the kerosene/diesel/petrol flavors I'm so fond of in older Riesling. Any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks
-Bill
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Robin Garr

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Re: What is the oldest GV you've tasted?

by Robin Garr » Sun Aug 27, 2006 4:11 pm

Bill Hooper wrote:Any thoughts/suggestions?


Bill, here's an interesting side-by-side tasting I enjoyed in a visit to Weingut Mantlerhof in 1998. I don't think GV *does* petrol, but it certainly gets rich and complex and bodaciously delicious.

<b>Mantlerhof 1961 Gedersdorf Grüner Veltliner</b> - Presented blind with the invitation that we guess the vintage. Everyone falls far short of the reality, as its clear bright brass color and delicious tobacco, coffee and butterscotch aromas suggest a much younger wine. Flavors consistent with the nose, layers of stone fruit and caramel, ripe and dry. A remarkable wine, it's almost impossible to believe that it's 37 years old.

<b>Mantlerhof 1961 Steindl Riesling</b> - More old-wine amazement: Bright gold in color, with good caramel and coffee aromas, hazelnuts and almonds, honey and just a whiff of petrol. Petrol more evident on the palate than the nose, dry, crisp and bright. Incredible.
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Bill Hooper

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Re: What is the oldest GV you've tasted?

by Bill Hooper » Sun Aug 27, 2006 4:38 pm

Thanks Robin,

Your tasting notes sound like a cross between white Burgundy and white Rhone. Could old GV give Meursault or St. Peray a run for the money?
I'll keep you posted on the '77.


Prost!
-Bill
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Re: What is the oldest GV you've tasted?

by Robin Garr » Sun Aug 27, 2006 5:03 pm

Bill Hooper wrote:Your tasting notes sound like a cross between white Burgundy and white Rhone. Could old GV give Meursault or St. Peray a run for the money?


Bill I wish I had more tasting experience with it so I could say for sure. Outside Austria, I don't think you'll see many collectors aging GV ... <i>yet</i>. The wine at Mantlerhof tasted absolutely delicious, and even GVs with just a few years on them did seem to take on more richness. If I had to guess, I think I'd guess that they get more Burglike, but I can't claim much expertise here.
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Hoke

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Re: What is the oldest GV you've tasted?

by Hoke » Sun Aug 27, 2006 6:58 pm

Did a retrospective of Gruners spanning 30 years with Terry Theise. Excellent wines, and superbly narrated tasting.

I agree both the GV is not noted for its petrol/diesel characters, and think it would also show some characeristics of some old Burgs.

The wines (at least those in the good vintages and from the good properties definitely do get fatter and richer, though not in any way flabbier as they maintain their 'crunch' nicely.

To me, I'd say the particular green, celery-like characterof young GV subsides and changes to a glossier, fuller vinous fruit, holding just this side of nutty.
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Michael Pronay

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Re: What is the oldest GV you've tasted?

by Michael Pronay » Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:34 pm

Bill,

François Mauss, founder and president of GJE (Grand Jury Européen) reports on a memorable tasting of Grüner Veltliner in Langenlois, dating from the 1983 to 1936, on the Parker forum:

http://dat.erobertparker.com/bboard/sho ... hp?t=95397

Another GJE member (W van Gorp) also added tasting notes
Ceterum censeo corticem esse delendam
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: What is the oldest GV you've tasted?

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:44 pm

Thanks for posting that, Michael. That is amazing, I would never have thought these wines could show so much after all that time in the cellar.
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Re: What is the oldest GV you've tasted?

by Michael Pronay » Wed Aug 30, 2006 1:44 pm

Bob,

François Mauss has some nice things to say in posting #33 in this thread

http://dat.erobertparker.com/bboard/sho ... p?t=100250 :

"Truly a varietal at the level of the best german riesling and that I will have no fear to put in a blind tasting with some old Montrachet."
Ceterum censeo corticem esse delendam

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