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Jim Jones in Tokyo

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TN: At the beach (Bugey, Soave, Grunhauser Kabinett)

by Jim Jones in Tokyo » Tue Aug 29, 2006 8:45 pm

AT THE BEACH HOUSE AND RELAXED - (6/30/2006)

With the family and with nothing but fun and light fresh seafood in mind.
  • N.V. Bottex Vin du Bugey-Cerdon La Cueille - France, Savoie, Vin du Bugey-Cerdon
    Pale but bright pink and happily frothing. Nose shows a bit of the sweetness but also a healthy dose of cranberry and quinine. Palate is sweeter than the nose and shows hints of the strawberry expected from Bugey, but shows more cherry and still a bit of the cranberry. Sweeter and a bit less fresh on the palate than the Renardet-Fachet (as others have also commented), but made quite intriguing by the cranberry and quinine on the nose. I enjoy these things in the proper context and am pleased to find some variety within the genre.
  • 2002 Tamellini Soave Classico Superiore Anguane - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
    At the rich end of Soave straw yellow and appealingly bright. Fresh sweet nose of honeyed hay and spiced apple is immediately apparent, with undertones of sweet flowers and wet stone. Bright, incisive palate with tart white plum, apple, and citrus. Persistent finish is honeyed and refreshingly tart at the same time. Entirely bigger, deeper, and seemingly sweeter than the ordinary Soave without losing any tipicità or freshness.
  • 2002 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Ruwer
    Light greenish gold with still the tiniest (and I mean tiniest) hint of spritz that never made its way to the palate except as a generally perceived sense of freshness. Nose of tart apple, very lightly petrolly earth, and a floral hint. Palate heads pleasantly and bracingly into lime territory, with some stone to boot. Strong finish is tart but not sharp with a saline citrus quality before apple flower sweetness smooths it out. Love this stuff. Only regret is that it’s still very young but was quaffed by the group too quickly to see any development. Good MSR riesling is one of those wines for which I have a very hard time calling one vintage better or worse than another, except for real duds. Not better or worse, just thrillingly different.


From summery to serious, these are all winners in this context (and many others!).

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Jim Jones
Tokyo, Japan

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