WTN: Huet and Kiralyudvar with Anthony Hwang

I had the good fortune to be invited to a small tasting at Jojo's shop with Anthony Hwang, owner of top Vouvray house Huet and Tokaji producer Kiralyudvar. Anthony's family was originally from China but settled in the Philippines after the Communist takeover. Although now based in the US, he still has family in Manila.

We started with a Huet Petillant Brut 2002 courtesy of International Wine and Food Society Manila Branch President Bernie Sim - I had this sparkler two years ago and thought it was very good with some serious depth. It has taken on a honey gold cast with an extremely fine, gentle stream of bubbles that are hardly visible. You can feel them bursting on your tongue, however. Rather rich with the barest hint of an oxidative note. Impressive length as well.

We then proceeded to the Tokajis:

Kiralyudvar Tokaji Sec 2006 - 70% Furmint 30% Harslevelu. Some pungency on the nose. Light with high acidity and sweeter than I expected. A very charming, easy wine that would make a good aperitif. I have to get me some of this. P 1500.00 at Bacchus.

Kiralyudvar Cuvee Ilona 2003 - This wine was conceptualized by Anthony and named after his wife Evelyn, which translates to Ilona in Russian. This has RS of 190 g/l which makes it higher than 6 puttonyos. I'm not too sure but I think I heard him say this has a bit of Muscat in the mix. Light gold. Strong scent of coffee. Intensely sweet, honeyed and viscous but has a freshness and lightness about it. Round, no hard edges. The balance is exquisite. Unbelievalbe length.

Kiralyudvar Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos 1999 - Strange note of dill on the nose. A touch less sweet than Ilona and with more acidity. Very complex with marmalade, orange rind, apricots, crystallized fruits and much more. The acidity frames this wine very nicely and gives it structure. Great length. Instead of picking individual berries for the Aszu wines, they pick only 100% botrytized bunches. In this case, the mix is 70% botrytized bunches and 30% passerille grapes.

Unfortunately I had to leave early for another appointment but this was a tasting I enjoyed immensely.

[David M. Bueker]

That Huet is an internet legend.

We don't see many Tokaji notes, so thanks for that as well. I only wish there was more Tokaji available for sale around here so that I could try more.

That Huet is an internet legend.

The legendary status of that wine seems to be in direct proportion to how late it was released.

[David M. Bueker]

That Huet is an internet legend.

The legendary status of that wine seems to be in direct proportion to how late it was released.

The Loire version of "AP number fetishism."

That Huet is an internet legend.

We don't see many Tokaji notes, so thanks for that as well. I only wish there was more Tokaji available for sale around here so that I could try more.

As one would expect, there was a bunch of Kiralyudvar at Chambers. Huet too.

Just to be clear, the Petillant we tried isn't the late disgorged version just offered by Rare Wine Co. Like I said, I first tried this about 2 years ago.