WTN: Syrian and Lebanese wines

This week has been quite a hectic one, traveling (too much of it by walking) around Syria looking for Roman roads and other late antique, rather unpicturesque sites like like al-Andarine, with its newly found "basalt Basilica".

But I did have time to visit a few more picturesque sites, too, and to eat numerous very good meals (one needs energy for this type of work), and to try a couple bottles.


St. Simeon chose a rather nice place to sit on top of a pillar ... uhmmmm ... stub

In Tartus, previously called Tortosa, we had a lovely meal of only mezze and tried an awful Syrian wine, Al'Andalus Old Wine 1996 from Homs, Syria with a funny back label mentioning that it is produced in a grape factory! That should have been the first warning sign. Brown. Smells of vinegar. Tastes like our tabboule and fattoush used it as seasoning. Amazingly these two vinegar infused salads made the wine much less worse than it was, with the vinegar of the dish cutting through the vinegar of the wine to reveal a bit of raisiny fruit in there! I would rather drink spoofy wine than this.



Thankfully some Lebanese wines are available (though not Musar). Ksara's Blanc de Blancs 2007 is too oaky, but has lovely, strong acidity. Tries too hard to be something serious rather than just fun and gluggable.

Like the Bl de Bl, Ksara's Blanc de l'Observatoire 2009 is a rather strange blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat and Clairette, but it works. It isn't over-ripe though the Bekaa Valley isn't a cool region, they are only about 12,5% abv. Nicely aromatic, but despite some obvious Muscat aromas, the nose doesn't promise sweetness as do so many other wines with strong Muscat aromas. And, indeed, it is crisp, high in acidity and very moreish with some fresh fish in a herbal sauce during the hot period of day on Arwad island just off the coast from Tartus.

Anyway, now I'm back in Damascus for a few days before heading off to the colder, less civilized part of the world.


Enjoyed the sunset at Azem Palace in the old town

Otto,

I WANT TO HEAR ABOUT YOUR WHOLE TRIP!!! Looks very interesting and we had been looking to do the same for some time (maybe plus Jordan or something). Many thanks.

I like Ksara wines too, which are widely available in Canada for some reason. Good value too.

Mike

I WANT TO HEAR ABOUT YOUR WHOLE TRIP!!! Looks very interesting and we had been looking to do the same for some time (maybe plus Jordan or something).

Once I get more photos uploaded I'll try to write something more about it. I very much recommend Syria and Lebanon and maybe a quick trip to Jordan, too (not so much to see there, though). Get in touch when you do go if you want more specific recommendations.

I WANT TO HEAR ABOUT YOUR WHOLE TRIP!!! Looks very interesting and we had been looking to do the same for some time (maybe plus Jordan or something).

Once I get more photos uploaded I'll try to write something more about it. I very much recommend Syria and Lebanon and maybe a quick trip to Jordan, too (not so much to see there, though). Get in touch when you do go if you want more specific recommendations.

Many thanks Otto! I will certainly take you up on that.

[James Roscoe]

Me too! What is the basalt basilica? I am more interested in classical antiquity than your Ancient Mesopotamians. Too bad about there being no Musar? Is that a political issue?

Me too! What is the basalt basilica? I am more interested in classical antiquity than your Ancient Mesopotamians. Too bad about there being no Musar? Is that a political issue?

Doubtful, James. Even after the political dust-up between the two nations, there remain strong ties between Syria and Lebanon. More likely is that there isn't enough demand for Musar in Syria to justify exporting it there, but there might also be some hard feelings in the Hochar family toward Syria and its actions in Lebanon.

Mark Lipton

James, Though it isn't easily observable from the picture, that pile of stones is actually a basilica made from basalt, hence the name (archaeologists are so inventive with names, aren't they ) Musar's availability is a political issue though I didn't get a clear answer as to why they aren't available. But apparently only some officially approved Lebanese products are available and Musar isn't one of them.



I dared to try another Syrian wine tonight, with much better results! Janá'in al-Ard / Domaine al-Ard Côtes de l'Oronte 2009 is a red blend of Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Caladoc (what is this?) made by a French oenologist. I don't know where exactly along the Orontes, since the back label mentions maritime influence, yet the only town name is that of Homs which is so far inland that I wouldn't have expected maritime influence there.

Anyway, the wine is only 11,5% according to the label but is fully ripe. The Syrah is much in evidence in its gamy slightly rustic scent, though such is the sun in Syria that it is veering more towards Shiraz than Syrah stylistically (though with no oak that I can sense). Seems a bit dilute on attack, but fills out well. Nice acidity despite the hot climate style: refreshing, clean finish.

Not bad at all, especially since it costs about 3€ a bottle.

[James Roscoe]

Archeologists and historians have always been thought of as original and creative! I get the basalt part of the name, but I can't see the shape of a basilica anywhere in that picture.

I get the basalt part of the name, but I can't see the shape of a basilica anywhere in that picture.

Neither do I, but the head of the team of Oxford excavators is one of the most highly respected experts on Byzantine architecture, so if she says it's a basilica, it's a basilica. And though I hate to appeal to authority instead of proper evidence, I'll have to do so this time, since I don't have any better evidence. Sorry. I'll let you know about any twists and turns the excavations will take next summer.

blend of Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Caladoc (what is this?)

According to Jancis Robinson's Oxford Companion to Wine, a cross of Grenache and Côt that isn't permitted currently in any French AOC and is mostly blended into VDPs in the southern Rhône.

[James Roscoe]

I assume the basalt rocks look more man-made or cut when you are there than they do in the picture. From the photograph they appear to be a natural formation.

What Byzantine period is the church? Syria must continue to have a lot of Byzantine architecture.

Doesn't Cot = Malbec?

Thanks Keith. Always fun to see grapes I hadn't even heard of before.

James, yes Côt is the same.

IIRC the parts of al-Andarin that the Oxonians excavated were from the 4-6th Centuries. I don't know of a more precise dating for the Basilica, but I'll check after work tonight from my references.

Since you and Michael seemed a bit interested, I finally uploaded all my pics to Flickr (here you go!). If you want explanations of what something is, just ask.

[James Roscoe]

Otto, the pictures are stunning! Thanks for the link.