2008 Roter Veltliner, Weingut Leth, Hofweingarten, Wagram (Donnauland), Austria:
A white (well, lightly golden) wine made from a pinkish mutation of Gruner Veltliner. Nicely aromatic, with tropical fruit and maybe a touch of banana. A fairly big wine on the palate, but not lacking elegance. It recalls a rich pinot gris with its oily, smoke tinged aspect, but there is something tropical to the fruit that I don't find in PG. Really decent length. This was apparently a very common grape in the area, but it is now quite rare. Leth specializes in keeping some of the old varieties going. Screwcap closure, 12.5% abv and $14 .