Domaine Mittnacht Freres Pinot Blanc 2009
In most wine growing areas, the modest Pinot Blanc is considered as something of moderate interest, by growers, winemakers and consumers. It seldom gets much attention, and only occasionally appears in well-formed wine lists, and when it does it seldom generates high expectations.
That's a mistake though, especially when you consider how well this grape performs in the hands of a dedicated Alsace grower/winemaker.
Domaine Mittnacht is a relatively new entity on the Alsatian wine scene---but not really. In 1963 brothers Andre and Louis Mittnacht merged their separate vineyard holdings into one estate. Nowadays cousins Christophe and Marc Mittnacht are in charge. And since 1999 Mittnacht Freres has farmed organically and biodynamically, with the belief that such practices increase the fertility and quality of both the soil and the vine, and will yield superior grapes for their wines.
Say what you will, believe what you will, about biodynamics, the strictly anecdotal and experiential proof is in the proverbial pudding. And the Mittnacht wines make a very nice pudding indeed! From their vineyards that stretch between the villages of Ribeaville and Riquewihr (including some fine Grand Cru plots), Mittnacht produces a fine array of lovely varietal wines.
Domaine Mitttnacht Pinot Blanc 2009 is, to put it simply, a stunning rendition of Pinot Blanc.
The wine has a sense of purity and brilliance, a remarkable clarity and precision of flavor, and it immediately commands attention at the very first sip.
Crystal clear, smelling wondrously of quince and pear and crisp, fresh green apple, the Pinot Blanc, in the words of one taster, "Smells and feels like it should be sparkling---but it isn't!" This apparently lean and tightly structured wine then proceeds to fill up the mouth with creamy texture and bright fruit flavor, then finishes dry as a bone with a refreshing snap of lemon acidity. First mouthwatering and nervy, then mouth-filling and creamy, then mouth-cleansing and refreshing and compelling another sip: what could be better?
Is that biodynamics, or good husbandry and excellent winemaking? Yes. And to the consumer, who cares? However it got this way, this is remarkably fine wine...the kind of wine that disappears from the bottle faster than you think it could, and before you know it. So best to pick it up in multiples when you can. You'll need more than you think you will.
The Mittnacht Pinot Blanc, as with most good Alsatians, works its magic with foods, and handles the heavier fare of winter foods with total aplomb. The secret here is that particular Alsatian combination of body, depth of flavor, purity of expression, and fulsome acidity that holds it all together in bundle.
Domaine Mittnacht is not a well-known name in the U.S. At this moment. That should change, and change quickly, when people become aware of how very good these wines are.
Mittnacht is imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, is a Daniel Johnnes Selection, and is offered at an SRP of $18.99.
Continue reading on Examiner.com: Alsace Winter Whites: Domaine Mittnacht Freres Pinot Blanc 2009 - National French Wine | Examiner.com http://www.examiner.com/french-wine-in- ... z1DlyAcc2d