Last weekend I attended a very interesting tasting at Rob, the Brussels gastronomic temple, where several French organic and biodynamic producers were presenting their wines. They were all people whose enthusiasm and commitment shone through and most had some very interesting things to say.
I asked Noël Pinguet (Huet) about the eccentric nature and the lack of scientific basis for some biodynamic practices. He replied that he was by no means an unconditional believer in Steiner’s theories but that he continued to use biodynamic methods because he had observed that he made better wines with them.
All the wines shown here were distinguished by being very tasty and having marked personalities.
Domaine Michel Guignier, Morgon
The grapes at this estate are cultivated organically http://www.morgon-michel-guignier.com/S ... GNIER.html .
There was an exceptionally good Beaujolais Nouveau bio 2011 Les Améthystes (€6), which showed fine fruit (some raspberry), flinty minerals and lively acidity without a hint of banana (thanks to indigenous yeasts said M. Guignier); 15.5/20 +++ but sadly sold out when I enquired about it. Morgon bio-Vitis2010 (€9) was aromatically a little closed but showed some pure fruit and lively minerality; 15.5/20. Morgon 2010 Canon (€10) was also somewhat closed but showed more complexity and generosity on the palate with unusual but pleasing hints of cloves; 16/20.
Château La Colombière, Fronton, near Toulouse
This estate, run by the pleasant young Cauvin couple, uses biodynamic methods http://www.chateaulacolombiere.com/english/ . The principle grape variety in Fronton is Négrette but other varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are authorised in a blend. Of the wines shown here, all AOC Fronton, only Réserve included 20% of Cabernets, both Sauvignon and franc.
I loved Vinum 2010 (€6) for its exuberant savoury and tangy fruit, earthiness, lively acidity and hints of old lace; I bought some; 15.5/20+++. Réserve 2010 (€7) was smoother and more civilised but still showed a lot of Négrette character; 15.5/20++. Coste Rouge 2009 (€10) was deeper and more structured and complex showing attractive fruit impregnated with cassis and leather notes; this one should improve with ageing; 16/20 now.
Causses Marines, Gaillac, near Albi, SW France
Patrick Lescarret is an enthusiastic advocate for his methods and wines. He uses biodynamic methods of culture and mainly local grape varieties and practices low yields http://www.causse-marines.com/# . I have previously not been particularly impressed by Gaillac made mainly from international varieties, but Lescarret assured me that I would taste the difference with local varieties and he was right.
He was very modest about his Mousseaux naturel Préambulles (€10), made from Mauzac, but I thought it excellent value with generous apple tinged fruit and vivacity; 15/20. Vdt Zacmau (W) 2010 (€12), also made from Mauzac, showed a floral nose and a round and quite rich palate with smooth acidity and spicy notes; 15.5/20. Vdt variety Dencon (W) 2010 (€12) was deliciously tangy with floral and mineral notes; 15.5/20++. Gaillac Les Peyrouzelles 2009 (€7), made from a cocktail of varieties principally Braucol, Syrah and Duras, was slightly reductive but delicious on the palate showing attractive tangy and savoury fruit and lively acidity; 15.5/20++. Vdt Rasdu 2008 (€12), made from Duras, was a much tougher proposition showing substance tinged with damson and firm tannic structure needing time to be tamed; 16/20 potentially.
Domaine Huet, Vouvray
Needs no introduction.The grapes here been certified biodynamic for 20 years. All the wines were Vouvray.
Pétillant 2005 (€19) showed floral and mineral aromas and generous and tender fruit with a caressing texture; 15.5/20++; my first time for Huet’s bubbly but not my last, I hope.
Le Mont sec 2010 (€23) was delicious with complex white fruit, minerals, crisp mouth-watering acidity and underlying tenderness (Pinguet said 10g/l Rs and, as Chris K has already told us, confirmed that his sec has usually 8-10g/l). However, the sugar/acid balance was so good that the overall impression was dry but not bone dry as with Foreau in most years; 17/20. I ordered some bottles but, when I went to pick them up, was told that Le Mont was sold out and was given Le Haut Lieu instead; I hope that le HL is just as good.
Clos du Bourg demi-sec 2010 (€27) was more closed than Le Mont but promises to be an excellent demi-sec with an underlying roundness and “gras” and its slight sweetness offset by excellent acidity. Pinguet recommends demi-sec with chicken dishes as well as richer fish dishes; 17/20 potentially.
Le Haut Lieu moelleux 2009 (€28) was surprisingly fresh with plentiful minerals, bright acidity and sweetness most apparent on the finish; 16.5/20.
Le Mont moelleux 1er trie 2009 (€51) was made 50% from botrytised grapes. It was on a different level. There were complex aromas of pineapple, citrus fruit, quince and minerals and the palate was distinctly richer, longer and more burnished than the previous. The botrytis cloaked less the terroir and varietal typicity than in many sweeties and typically delicious Vouvray acidity preventing any cloying; 18/20.
Part 2 will deal with Jean Fournier from Marsannay, Marcel Richaud from Cairanne and Clos Lapeyre from Jurançon.