WTN: Impressions from a Champagne Gala

[David M. Bueker]

Annual Champagne Gala at Table & Vine yesterday. I did not take formal notes, but there were some things that really stuck out.

The Great

Billiot - the Brut NV Reserve & Brut Rose were both outstanding, and the class of the entire event. The richness of the Brut Reserve was amazing.

Pierre Peters - the Cuvee de Reserve NV was intense and focused, and able to stand up to the Pinot dominated Billiot despite being 100% Chardonnay. The 2002 Chetillons was also outstanding, but did not hold any kind of edge over either Billiot or the Peters NV.

Perrier Jouet - yes, you read that right. They were pouring the 2004 Belle Epoque & 2002 Belle Epoque Rose (both aka Fleur de Champagne - a name that is being jettisoned), and both were drop dead gorgeous. The Rose was the epitome of elegance, and the 2004 Brut was as complex as any wine in the room.

Krug - the Brut MV was its usual outstanding self.

The Good

Drappier - the house continues to imrpess, and was nearly in the great category. The Brut NV was not so hot, but the Brut Nature and 2004 were both delicious. The Brut Nature is a great value as well.

Aubry - just tasted the Brut NV, but it was tasty and refreshing - good value as well

Cedric Bouchard - the two wines poured (NV & 2004 Parcelle) were both enjoyable, but not singing

Andre Clouet - tasted across the range. All of the wines were so cold that they were nearly frozen. The Brut NV and 1911 bottlings managed to show very well despite that, but these did suffer from improper handling at the event

Duval Leroy - only showed the Brut NV, but it's just a solid wine that is also a great value.

Roederer & Roederer Estate - the Roederer NV was really fine, and is back to being a good value. The Roederer Estate wines (Brut and Rose) were both tasty and typically great value. 2004 Cristal was like catnip to the crowd, but is so embryonlic that it's really hard to judge unless you judge by price.

The Rest

Moet & Chandon - boring - even the 2002 Dom Perignon is boring.

Armand de Brignac - the Ace of Spades likely had its best showing in all the years we've tried it, but it is still a non-distinct, run-of-the-mill NV Champagne for people who are impressed by packaging. Buy 4 bottles (or more) of the Billiot!

Many other bottlings that were shown, tasted and left little impression. This captures the essence of the event for me and Laura. Great time as usual.

thanks, will look for the Billiot, sounds great.
For search reasons might want to make it Andre Clouet, so no confusion (the 1911 makes it clear to me, but someone searching re Paul Clouet might think a positive note re NV)

I remember the first time I had the Billiot Brut Rose. It was at the French Laundry in 2002. Back then it was not just good but actually a great bargain. Then the price kept going up.

I'm sorry to read your impression of the Moet & Chandon, especially the 2002 having spent some time there in June and made some purchases of that particular year. It tasted good at the time.

[David M. Bueker]

I'm sorry to read your impression of the Moet & Chandon, especially the 2002 having spent some time there in June and made some purchases of that particular year. It tasted good at the time.

It's all relative. I've taken more than a little heat elsewhere for my opinion of DP, but it was clearly outclassed in the tasting.

Interesting tasting. I've just never tasted enough champagnes on a regular basis to think I know them well. We open a bottle of wine almost every night when we eat at home but never champagne. I've always found it to get you loopy very quickly and there's nothing to do with the remaing wine except dump it in the sink. I'll have to find a way to drink it more often. Same thing with dessert wines, wine with dinner, but another after, just too much.

[David M. Bueker]

Lou - Laura and I generally end up putting a stopper in the bottle and each have a glass again the next night. It stays fizzy enough to still be very enjoyable.

[James Roscoe]

I was at a Drappier tasting this weekend and would concur that their line-up is very good. I would rate the blanc de blanc as outstanding and the blanc de noir and rosé as nearly so. I was tasting it on its own. The complexity of the blanc de blanc is amazing.

Lou - Laura and I generally end up putting a stopper in the bottle and each have a glass again the next night. It stays fizzy enough to still be very enjoyable.

Sometimes it's more enjoyable the second night.

Slightly O/T: Regarding H. Billiot Fils--I don't think I've ever seen a "propriétaire récoltant" designation before. Is it different from récoltant manipulant?

[David M. Bueker]

Slightly O/T: Regarding H. Billiot Fils--I don't think I've ever seen a "propriétaire récoltant" designation before. Is it different from récoltant manipulant?

No idea. Checking with one who would know.

[David M. Bueker]

Slightly O/T: Regarding H. Billiot Fils--I don't think I've ever seen a "propriétaire récoltant" designation before. Is it different from récoltant manipulant?

No idea. Checking with one who would know.

Update - per Terry Theise there is no difference.

Hi David -

Thank you for the interesting notes. I will have to make the 2 hour drive to Table and Vine someday for one of these tastings. Will need to try Clouet eventually as well as more of the Billiot range.

Slightly O/T: Regarding H. Billiot Fils--I don't think I've ever seen a "propriétaire récoltant" designation before. Is it different from récoltant manipulant?

No idea. Checking with one who would know.

Update - per Terry Theise there is no difference.

He oughta know! Thanks for the legwork.