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François Audouze


Ultra geek




Tue Mar 21, 2006 4:05 pm


Noisy-leSec France

a rare group of Krug in magnums by Marc Veyrat

by François Audouze » Sat Nov 04, 2006 8:53 pm

The main goal for our trip, begun two days ago, is the lunch by Marc Veyrat in Veyrier du Lac. Our group of twelve is composed of aficionados. We kiss each other, we show the happiness to meet again. Our beloved sommelier Samuel, friend of our previous tastings is not there, but Jérôme will play his role with efficiency. I hear that the Krug 1973 is corked. A replacement by another year will be made. It’s a pity because I love this year.

Hervé is the man who makes the place work, under the vibrant talent of Marc. We know the secret of the sale of Megève, but at that time we are not allowed to talk or comment, and we notice it in the atmosphere. Marc comes to welcome us, but behind the smile in surface, I can see the sadness of a man who was handicapped for too much time by his accident by skiing. We sit by the terrace on the lake with the precious garden where miraculous herbs grow. On the palette of a painter, many different tastes are put, including a very curious carpaccio. We drink the usual “soda vera”, a very acidic beverage which will help to stay for the lunch for more than five hours.

I mention the menu in French, as it is impossible for me to translate it correctly. The imagination of Marc is absolutely incredible.

Entrée sur une palette de peintre, dont un carpaccio

Soda Vera

Yaourt de foie gras, escalope de foie, mikado de myrrhe odorante

L’œuf au plat virtuel, cumin des bois d’ici, lait de coco

La flûte inversée, pois cassés tièdes, mélisse, citronnelle, humus,

Le ravioli velouté, carottes, céleri, concombre, gelée de pommes,

Œufs de caille au caramel clair, polypode, cornet d’oxalis

Hostie virtuelle du 21ème siècle, jus de cannette, sorbet safrané

L’omble chevalier des lacs alpins, filandre de citronnelle, épicéa

Darne de homard breton, vin jaune, bonbon d’herbe de maggy (acha)

Crème brûlée à la reine des prés et la confiture d’écrevisses

Ris de veau poêlé, beignet de pommes génépi

L’ercheu des fromages de nos talentueux paysans

« L’avalanche de délicatesse de ma fille Carine »

There are some trends which are remarkable. In Marc Veyrat there is a part of Leonardo da Vinci as he is largely in advance on his time. There is also something of Vincent Van Gogh as all the scars, the wounds of his life are in his cook, but also all the gentle human aspects of this man : his respect for his father, his respect for nature, his adoration of herbs which grow wildly in his region. I see his work as the affirmation of love but also as a cry which is the need to be loved and understood. And, as I begin to understand all the human aspects of his creation, I enjoy even more. Jean-Philippe, the friend who taught me the art of Marc has made ten dinners of this type. I understand why among the ten, three had as a theme the champagne Krug, as Krug is certainly one of the few wines which could be adapted to all the creative tendancies of Marc.

The champagne Krug 1988 in magnum is extremely appreciated by my friends. I find it too young, too green, too tight. An evidence of what I say will appear when this champagne will have one hour more in our glass. The transformation is spectacular. This champagne needed some air to be expressive.

The Krug grande cuvee in magnum is, contrarily to the 1988, completely in the true definition of Krug. This one is not very old and would certainly be better with some more years.

The Krug Collection 1981 in magnum is spectacular, and I am sure that no other champagne of this year could give more accomplishment than this one. The ability of adaptation of this champagne is incredible.

We have then a Krug Clos du Mesnil 1988 in magnum. To drink a Clos du Mesnil is not so frequent. But in magnum, I think that it is the first time for me. This champagne is born to be a winner. It is Mark Spitz or Carl Lewis. And as it comes on the absolute perfection of a “omble chevalier”, I am in heaven.

The Krug Clos du Mesnil 1982, in bottle this time, is perfect. No critic can be made. Full of charm and intelligence.

The Krug Collection 1964 in magnum drives us in an universe of exception. This champagne is above the others. Of course, more than others, I am comfortable with older champagnes. But everyone is able to understand the sensuality and the perfection of this champagne.

I had brought a half bottle of Yquem 1989 to conclude this incredible lunch. This 1989 is perfect, highly above the Yquem 1976 that I had loved the day before.

It is frustrating for me to be unable to translate the menu that we had. The combinations were splendid. The chef is at a level of his art that we would be happy not to loose as for six months he will not be operative as he has closed his two places for the six months to come. He is one of the most inventive of his generation. I wish that he will find a clear way to continue to give us so much pleasure.

Champagne Krug was very adapted to this creation. It was an imperishable moment.
Old wines are younger than what is generally considered

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