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WTN: Contrast

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Florida Jim


Wine guru




Wed Mar 22, 2006 2:27 pm


St. Pete., FL & Sonoma, CA

WTN: Contrast

by Florida Jim » Fri Apr 07, 2006 8:25 am

2002 Chidaine, Montlouis Les Choisilles:
Starts out sharp and angular but, with air, becomes harmonious and varietally correct; strongly flavored, complex and very long. Needs several years (maybe more) to round out but is still tasty today. ‘Lots of potential.

2002 Lapierre, Morgon:
Geranium scented nose with light cherry fruit; high-toned and a bit brittle in the mouth although some of the geranium is gone, balanced and identifiable as Beaujolais. Not for me. Others may find it bright and charming but, if I drink this again, it will likely be over ice (i.e. sangria) or, if I want to roll the dice, at least a decade out.
(Once again, I wonder about the non-use of sulpher by this house. This wine gives the impression that sorbic acid was used to stabilize it rather than the traditional sulpher regimen. And if that’s the case, the wine has suffered for it.
I have had very good wines from Lapierre but, when this occurs, I lean toward purchasing other producer’s wines that do not exhibit inconsistency; this is not the first bottle of the 2002 that has shown this way.)

2002 Clos de la Roilette (Coudert), Fleurie:
And here is an example of a consistent producer - one that seems to produce fine wine every year and is always less expensive than Lapierre to boot; slightly muted nose still shows solid black and red fruit with spice accents; medium weight in the mouth with flavors that echo the nose and a well integrated, layered, nicely balanced delivery; medium length. This bottle showed very close to ready (which was unexpected) so I will be opening another in the near future just to see if it was a single bottle phenomenon.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars

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