WTN: Burg (Savigny), claret (Poujeaux) & Madiran; all v good

Savigny-les-Beaune La Dominode 1996 - Jean-Marc Pavelot – Alc.13% . 18 months ago, just after a cold, I described a bottle of this as a very nice medium/light linear and elegant Burgundy with still bright fruit, lively acidity and minerals; 16/20++.. This time I have the impression of more weight and depth though the rest of the description applies. Very good 16.5/20.

Château Poujeaux Moulis en Médoc 1994 – Jean Theil – Alc.12.5% continues to perform well being sturdy and flavourful without the alleged 1994 faults of unripe Cabernet, angular dry tannins and abrupt finish. Colour was quite deep red with little sign of ageing. The nose showed well developed fragrant red fruit with a dab of sweat. The medium+ bodied palate showed satisfactory mouth-fill and lively fruit, fragrance and earthy minerality encased in resolved structure. This is not a hedonistic Poujeaux like the 1997 (but my last bottle I opened of that was fading somewhat) and is more in the austere and savoury vein of 1988. This is what good bourgeois claret is all about. Very good 16/20+.

Madiran “Cuvée des Vieux Ceps – élevée en fûts de chêne” 1998 – Château Barréjat, Denis Capmartin – Alc.12.5% - was even better than a bottle 4 years ago showing typical Madiran virility with sturdy body and structure, good depth and length, raspberry, leather and clay notes and a less typically Madiran touch of sweet graciousness. The formerly noticeable polished wood patina has become almost imperceptible. Excellent 17/20.

Savigny-les-Beaune La Dominode 1996 - Jean-Marc Pavelot – Alc.13% . 18 months ago, just after a cold, I described a bottle of this as a very nice medium/light linear and elegant Burgundy with still bright fruit, lively acidity and minerals; 16/20++.. This time I have the impression of more weight and depth though the rest of the description applies. Very good 16.5/20.

That's very good news, TIm, as most of the '96ers that I've had have been marked by their structure, which isn't to everyone's taste.

Madiran “Cuvée des Vieux Ceps – élevée en fûts de chêne” 1998 – Château Barréjat, Denis Capmartin – Alc.12.5% - was even better than a bottle 4 years ago showing typical Madiran virility with sturdy body and structure, good depth and length, raspberry, leather and clay notes and a less typically Madiran touch of sweet graciousness. The formerly noticeable polished wood patina has become almost imperceptible. Excellent 17/20.

Interesting, a producer with whom I am unfamiliar. From your description, this Madiran sounds a bit modern?

Mark Lipton

From your description, this Madiran sounds a bit modern?

Mark Lipton

Yes, it is. However, it was beginning to work well after 11 years and at 15 even better, IMO, though I can imagine that, say, Otto might still find too many oak traces.

There is a theory around that "modern" and "traditional" styles start to converge after a decade in bottle. In particular Victor de la Serna claims this about Rioja where a fairly long track record exists for "moderns". I wonder about Bordeaux; admirers of Perse's Pavie and the like claim that they will age beautifully but I think that it is too soon to be sure.

From your description, this Madiran sounds a bit modern?

Mark Lipton

Yes, it is. However, it was beginning to work well after 11 years and at 15 even better, IMO, though I can imagine that, say, Otto might still find too many oak traces.

There is a theory around that "modern" and "traditional" styles start to converge after a decade in bottle. In particular Victor de la Serna claims this about Rioja where a fairly long track record exists for "moderns". I wonder about Bordeaux; admirers of Perse's Pavie and the like claim that they will age beautifully but I think that it is too soon to be sure.

Yes, I also think that certain examples from Burgundy (Dujac, in particular) help support the idea that properly managed oak will integrate with time, as do some of the less-extreme modernist Barolos produced in the '90s. Perse's Pavie and the more modernist Bordeaux seem more problematic to me, as the lower acidity and polished tannins don't provide the usual structure that we associate with wines that will age well.

Mark Lipton