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Jenise

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WTN: Bernardus, Canneto, Rubino, Commanderie

by Jenise » Thu Nov 23, 2006 3:45 pm

2005 Commanderie de la Bargemone, Coteaux d'Aix en Provence A wine I've not had before, purchased for it's wonderfully wordy-busy, antique-looking label, the kind I find irresistable. It seems so sincere and purposeful. Lucky for me, the wine turned out to be a lot like the label, I quite liked it. Very dry, very stony, with a stemmy, slightly sherried flavor to the fruit that is obviously in the fruit and not the result of oxidation. Love it's uniqueness.

2000 Rubino della Palazzola, Umbria I bought this wine from a Garagiste mailer, and several months later I fell for another emailer on the same wine, only I didn't know it until I picked the wines up and realized I had a case. The mailer must have been very convincing because I bought six each go and I had never ordered six of anything else I hadn't tried. Felt rather foolish then, and I feel even more foolish now because I really can't see the last of this wine fast enough. Every time I pull a bottle, I like it less than I did the time before. Each has less brilliance and precision, each is muddier. I'm sure I was promised that it was like the Latour of Umbria and would last 20 years, but that's hardly true: any unfinished wine shows oxidation by the next day. I don't even know what's in it: at first I thought it had some cabernet, but now it shows more like merlot. Anyway, it's a Winebow import, and the original price was $20. 7 down, 5 to go (big sigh).

1999 Canneto Aglianico Here's the reverse story. I bought these some time ago and only started drinking them within the last year. Every bottle is getting better--or there's significant bottle variation. Whatever, where at first I thought it was at peak or possibly slightly past, in fact it now seems like it has more time. There's now black fruit among the red, the wine's firmer and brighter, and the tannins suggest it can hold here for some time. Very traditional, very nice.

1997 Bernardus Marinus, California My first time with this proprietor's blend, and I was impressed. Lovely maturing cabernet fruit with a flavor profile and iron minerality not unlike a Ridge Monte Bello, though I don't mean to imply that the wine's exactly in that league. I don't believe it is, but there's a semblance, and I love all those roasted cherry, red clay and graphite aromatics. It is my very favorite thing to find in a California cabernet. The drying finish suggests that the wine has peaked, but for the $17 I paid for this bottle (MSRP's over $50, I believe), that's not an issue. Lovely wine.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Doug Surplus

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Re: WTN: Bernardus, Canneto, Rubino, Commanderie

by Doug Surplus » Thu Nov 23, 2006 5:14 pm

I envy you that Marinus - I've had the 99which was also quite lovely. A couple of years ago I came across some 98s in Minneapolis at about $35 that I passed on because I was traveling and didn't want the hassle. Ever since, I've regretted it.
Doug

If God didn't want me to eat animals, why did He make them out of meat?
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Florida Jim

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Re: WTN: Bernardus, Canneto, Rubino, Commanderie

by Florida Jim » Thu Nov 23, 2006 5:58 pm

Jenise,
I am not much of a fan of Cotarella's wines, but the 1995 Rubino was such a structured and brooding beast that it has lasted and softened some over the years. I still have a few and an iron-clad promise to myself to leave them alone for another 5 years, minimum.
Unfortunately, subsequent vintages have been less impressive and not just for longevity purposes.
BTW, Rimmerman can sell sand to the Arabs in a draught. His prose is lethal - but then, you have learned that.
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: Bernardus, Canneto, Rubino, Commanderie

by Jenise » Thu Nov 23, 2006 7:30 pm

His prose is lethal


That's why I told the story, Jim, I knew someone out there would relate. Believe me, I've been much more cautious since. Actually consider myself somewhat lucky, this was a relatively inexpensive lesson.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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John S

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Re: WTN: Bernardus, Canneto, Rubino, Commanderie

by John S » Thu Nov 23, 2006 9:34 pm

They should be required to put a warning label on those Garagiste e-mails!
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Re: WTN: Bernardus, Canneto, Rubino, Commanderie

by James Dietz » Fri Nov 24, 2006 1:56 pm

I haven't received my Rubinos from Garagiste yet, but CT reminds me that I ordered the '01 vintage, which I hope is what I get, since you have now trashed the '00!!!

Yeah, every Garagiste offer sounds lilke one you can't resist!!!
Cheers, Jim
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: Bernardus, Canneto, Rubino, Commanderie

by Jenise » Fri Nov 24, 2006 2:07 pm

I hope you have the 01, too, Jim. The 00 is just not the caliber of wine I believed it to be when I bought it. Now I wonder what they did say, in fact. I'm going to go dig it out, if I still have the mailer, which I do tend to keep just in case I need a reality check like this. BRB.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: Bernardus, Canneto, Rubino, Commanderie

by Jenise » Fri Nov 24, 2006 3:30 pm

Jim, regrettably I didn't keep the mailer. Too bad, as it was undoubtedly a doozie or I'd not have fallen for it twice, and six each time to boot.

I just read the mailer for the 01 you emailed me, though, and I can certainly see glimmers of the same barbs they hooked me with on the 00. The 01 should be nicer. Good luck!
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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