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Dale Williams


Compassionate Connoisseur




Tue Mar 21, 2006 5:32 pm


Dobbs Ferry, NY (NYC metro)

WTN: BirdlessThanksgiving- Echezeaux, Vouvray, Rheingau, etc

by Dale Williams » Fri Nov 24, 2006 4:12 pm

Thursday Betsy made chex mix (kids request) and prepped Brussels sprouts; I assembled a cheese tray (Boucheron, Roaring 40s, Brie de Meaux, Manchego). We picked up Charles, a sweet older cellist from the orchestra, at the train station and headed to Betsy's sister's for Thanksgiving. Cal and Katherine are pesce-vegetarians, so I knew we were having "pink turkey" (salmon).

We started with assorted crudites and other nibbles, and an Emeril Lagasse squash soup recipe (good, even if it lacked the intended sausage). I had brought along the 2005 Leitz Rudesheimer Klosterlay Kabinett. Excellent bracing acidity, white peach and citrus fruit. But more notable for a slatey minerality than anything else. This is really quite nice for the $12/13 pricetag (rec from David B here, I believe). B+

2001 Vaufuget Vouvray
I can't help but think this would have been more vital closer to release, it ain't no Huet. Light, off-dry, some baked apple and beeswax aromas. Fruit seems a bit tired, finish is short. C+

The Vouvray made it to table (Leitz was gone), where we had salmon, mushroom stuffing, mashed potatoes, Brussel sprouts, etc. etc etc- the whole Thanksgiving spread, except the bird. We also had a couple of reds:

2004 Cortijo III Rioja
Light and simple red, juicy red fruit. Better than less time I tried, if not exciting. B-

1998 Francois Parent (Ch. de Guettes) Echezeaux
I had taken a flyer on this- GC Burgundy for mid-$30s, how wrong can you go? (I had a Copain PN in my bag as backup in case answer was "really wrong"). No need for backup, pleasant midweight Burg. Ripe black cherry fruit, some sandalwood and spice (cloves?). Medium length, modest tannins. Not the depth of a great GC, but at a price less than most 1ers it is good value and tasty. B+

Others followed with pumpkin pie, pumpkin cheescake, apple pie, and cookies; as non-dessert eater I just had a glass of the 2002 Gandia "Fusta Nova" Moscatel. Very sweet, some toast and honied lemon notes over a honeysuckle/apricot fruit base. Needs a bit more acidity to liven it up, seems heavy. B/B-

OK, so no bird and no spectacular wines (thought the Leitz is a spectacular value). But a nice day with friends and family, and I did give thanks for all that I have.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Tue Mar 21, 2006 5:07 pm


Helsinki, Finland

Re: WTN: BirdlessThanksgiving- Echezeaux, Vouvray, Rheingau,

by Otto » Fri Nov 24, 2006 5:10 pm

Thanks for the notes. The Vaufuget is IIRC part of the Chéreau-Carré stable. I've only had the 02 and 04 and thought both were decent wines and true to type but nothing special. From Chéreau-Carré, I'd stick to their better Muscadets: Chateau de Chasseloir Cuvée des Ceps Centenaires and Chateau du Coing de St. Fiacre.
I don't drink wine because of religious reasons ... only for other reasons.

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