I was not expecting "real" Kabinett from 2003, but I have these wines which need to be drunk and the asparagus season seemed a good opportunity. I remember visiting the Grünhaus estate in 2004, I think, and tasting the young 2003s alongside some 2002s. I invariably preferred the latter and felt that the former tasted as if they came from closer to the Mediterranean than to the North Sea. Both wines here turned out to be pretty good right now. However, by contrast with Dönnhoff's offering from the Nahe, the Grünhaus was distinctly fresher and closer to "real" Kabinett. I thought that Dönnhoff did a better effort with an excellent dry Dellchen 03 than with this Kabinett, good though it was.
Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett – 011 – 2003 – Dönnhoff – Alc.9.5%. This was much richer than I look for in Kabinett and lower in acidity than in a “normal” vintage, but it nevertheless showed attractive complexity of exotic fruit and was an enjoyable drink. Good 15.5/20++.
Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett – 6 - 2003 - C. von Schubert – Alc.7.5%. This was also sweeter and fuller than in a “normal” vintage but leaner and more sprightly than the Dönnhoff and showing livelier acidity and more marked minerality, thus making it the better food wine. Very good 16/20.