2004 de Villaine, Rully Les Saint-Jacques:
While this is well-made, solid, chardonnay I can detect the faintest hints of oak, the fruit is too sweet for me and the texture is softer than I’d like. Absolutely, nothing wrong here, it’s just that I prefer the more mineral driven, very crisp Côte Chalonnaise, Les Clous from this producer. About $23, imported by Kermit Lynch; I’d not buy it again.
2004 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba:
Very light and thin when first opened, this almost immediately takes on weight, suppleness and layers of flavor in the glass; a young, lightweight, elegant nebbiolo that does not pretend to be Barbaresco nor should it – it is lovely, charming, life-affirming juice all on its own. About $25, imported by Leonardo Locascio; I’ll buy some more soon.
1994 Flowers, Pinot Noir Camp Meeting Ridge:
For years this was so tannic as to be unbalanced; now it has come to a mellower place; still too much sour oak for me but the wine beneath it shows the kind of quality that can be achieved on the Sonoma Coast – deep, pure, ripe and very complete. Not my style of wine-making but there’s no denying the quality of the fruit. About $55 on release; I’d not buy it again.
(Incidentally, this wine was made by Steve Kistler and is the same wine as the 1994 Kistler CMR.)
Best, Jim