Burgundy

Hello, I will be visiting Burgundy in the summer of 2007 and have a few questions:

1. Has any one ever stayed at the house that the domaine Meo Camuzet rents out? It is located in the hamlet of Concoeur. If so, what are your thoughts on same?

2. Any restaurants to recommend?

3. Any wineries to visit to recommend?

Thank you so much. Lisa B from Toronto

Restaurants: Lameloise is, of course, classic. If you're down at the Beaujolais end, try Guy Lasaussaie.

Wineries: The best ones in the glamor appellations are only visitable with some connections. But the most interesting visits are often at fine producers in less glamorous areas like Maranges, Mercurey, Pernand, Montangny, Savigny, St-Aubin... French will be required as will an advance call for an appointment. One of my most memorable tastings in Burgundy was in Savigny with J-M Pavelot. Super nice fellow, amazingly good wines. And if you can get an appointment and want to try some outstanding and not-well-known Chardonnay, Steph Aladame in Montagny is doing some superb work.

Thanks for the help. Fortunately I do speak some French!

[Jenise]

Of all the wineries I visited on my two trips to this area, one surpassed them all: Chandon de Brialles. An appointment will be required, and Robert Parker's name cannot be mentioned during your visit (though Hugh Johnson's can), but if they can accomodate you you will be greatly charmed by both Madame Nicolai and her wines (which you will barrel taste in underground caves).

Thanks for the tip. How did you make the appointment, via e-mail, telephone? Did you need a contact? Lisa

[Jenise]

Lisa, I don't have a contact for you, I'm sorry. I accidentally met the family when their dog ran in front of our car. No harm came, but the incident led to introductions and an invitation to taste wine once Madame had ascertained that we did not "like ze eazy wine". Which is a point worth bringing up: you need to be serious about wine. If you're not, or if you're just looking for entertainment, this probably wouldn't be a good idea after all. Burgundy is small production wine made by people who do nearly all the vineyard work themselves. To take time out for guests is a luxury. And that's why most Burgundy makers aren't open for "degustation". Demand for their wines is so great that they don't have to serve to sell.

I am quite "serious" about wine, although I hate to use that word as it so pretentious quite frankly. I have already read and researched your recommendation of domaine chandon de briailles. It sounds divine. However, I cannot imagine any thing in my original post that would have given you the idea that I wanted "entertainment" although of course there are few better pleasures in the world than travelling through wine country and drinking divine wine with the person who has made it. I did this in Champagne last summer, Paso Robles the summer before, Santa Barbara the summer before, etc. This year and summer I intend to learn more about Burgundy. I know it's not like Napa, with disney like attractions open all day, although surprisingly I have found the wine persons I have contacted in Burgundy (and every where else in the world almost without exception) to be surprisingly friendly and inviting. and quite frankly,l not too "serious". Lisa Baumal

there have been a number of questions like yours over the years. the outline is pretty simple.
do you know anyone who knows someone in burgundy. they will help you.
do you like any burgundy producers in particular? google them until you get an email address or phone number and contact them, telling them of your fondness and saying you would like to visit.
can the person at your local vintages(lcbo) help you. can he ascertain their representitive in canada and get their contact info. their canadian rep can set you up.
burgundy is a very down to earth place in many ways. you might enjoy the rotisserie du chambertin - interesting tableau on the way in and a fascinating vaulted room where you can listen to conversations many tables away. if you have a good amount to spend, you might want to stay out in the country - in bouilland - host. du vieux moulin - one star restaurant and nice quiet lodging. i know you will have a great time.

For about $20 you can download "Insider's Guide to Visiting the Côte d'Or
" from http://www.burghound.com. I found it very helpful, as well as the Burgundy trip report http://www.wineloverspage.com/wines/wt040525.phtml from a couple of years ago.

While it's not often said on an august forum like this, don't miss the more pedestrian tours either. I visited this spring with family who weren't quite as into wine as myself and I managed to delight them with the obligatory tastings at Marche aux Vins in Beaune. Everyone should have to drink drink from a taste-vin by candlelight once a lifetime.

And if you can't arrange all the vigneron meetings you want, might I suggest the oddly named Safari Tours?
http://www.burgundy-tourism-safaritours.com

We picked up a brochure from our hotel (Hotel des Ramparts in Beaune) and for 64 euro/person we were driven through the hollowed white and red Grand Cru vineyards by the son of a vintner, a wine school graduate.
And the tours included a couple of tasting stops.

I had my vineyard maps in hand and was on the edge of my seat, asking dozens of questions which were very well answered, while my family listened to more than they ever wanted to hear about Burgundy.

I also heartily reccommend a stop at the shop of Alain Hess - Fromager, while in Beaune! We went in for some picnic supplies and Monsieur Hess would not even sell my wife some Raclette - "It is for melting" he says in that most French manner. He was a pleasure to talk to btw, and his shop is amazing.

Cheers and Bon Voyage

Jenise Of all the wineries I visited on my two trips to this area, one surpassed them all: Chandon de Brialles. An appointment will be required, and Robert Parker's name cannot be mentioned during your visit (though Hugh Johnson's can), but if they can accomodate you you will be greatly charmed by both Madame Nicolai and her wines (which you will barrel taste in underground caves).

If anyone is interested, Brentwood is trying to dump some Brialles this weekend [via email]:

Domaine Chandon de Briailles Aloxe Corton 1993 1 btl @ $82
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton Bressandes 2001 BH92 2 btl @ $89
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton Bressandes 2002 BH91 2 btl @ $64
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton Clos du Roi 2000 BH90 1 btl @ $49
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton Marechaudes 2002 WS91 1 btl @ $81
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses 2003 5 btl @ $35
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Aux Fourneaux 1996 1 btl @ $28
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavieres 2002 1 btl @ $45
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets 2002 BH91 2 btl @ $34

Brentwood doesn't seem to publish their emails on the website, so I guess you have to call the store.

Here are a couple of very good bistros in Beaune:

Ma Cuisine – on a side street (Passage Sainte Helene) just off Place Carnot, which is the main town square. The hearty and well-prepared Burgundian fare here is matched with a good and deep Burgundy wine list, at all prices. A must for us whenever we’re in Beaune. BTW, this one is only open a few days a week and reservations are a must.

La Gourmandin – another very good Burgundian bistro right on Place Carnot and it is easy to spot. Excellent regional dishes and good local wines by the glass.

Bon appétit.

[Jenise]

Here are a couple of very good bistros in Beaune:

Ma Cuisine – on a side street (Passage Sainte Helene) just off Place Carnot, which is the main town square. The hearty and well-prepared Burgundian fare here is matched with a good and deep Burgundy wine list, at all prices. A must for us whenever we’re in Beaune. BTW, this one is only open a few days a week and reservations are a must.

La Gourmandin – another very good Burgundian bistro right on Place Carnot and it is easy to spot. Excellent regional dishes and good local wines by the glass.

Bon appétit.

I can second Gourmandin. It's a lively spot with food and wine as you say, and a great vibe.

[Jenise]

If anyone is interested, Brentwood is trying to dump some Brialles this weekend [via email]:

Darn, Nathan, I didn't see this message when you posted it last weekend, there are several there I'd have been pleased to buy at those prices.