by Clint Hall » Thu Nov 28, 2013 4:05 pm
Hoke knows a whole lot more about this sort of thing than I do, but I do know that Chateau Ste Michelle, a huge, beautiful Woodinville, Washington winery I pedal by now and then on my bike, was bought in 2008 by Altria, owner of Marlboro, although for all I know since then Michelle may have been aquired or come under the acquisition radar of some other giant as it has had a complicated ownership history. By Washington State's modest standards, the winery is a behemoth, shipping 2.7 million cases last year, of which 1 million are Reisling, making it the world's biggest Riesling producer, or so their PR department says. It's easy to assume that the wines are all uninteresting commercial products, and the small neighboring Seattle wine shops where I do business don't carry most of them, maybe because of that negative image, but it would be hard to argue that overall quality is bad if one accepts Jeb Dunnuck's TNs and point scores in the most recent Wine Advocate review of Washington State. Dunnuck gave eight Michelle wines scores ranging from 88 to 92, with a 91 for a 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Canoe Ridge Estate Horse Heaven Hills.
Of course the Wine Advocate doesn't accept advertising, but it's sure tempting to assume other magazines that do might be catering to the winery. One could point to not only The Wine Spectator top one hundred Horse Heaven Hills Cab Sauv rating but also the "Winery of the Year Award" for 2004 by the Wine Enthusiast, and something called "a winery of the year" award that Michelle receives more or less automatically just about every year from Wine and Spirits magazine, making Chateau Ste Michell, according to their puff piece of a website, "the most honored American winery...in the past 27 years."
I don't have a single bottle of Chateau Ste Michelle wines in my cellar and haven't tasted one in a few years, but I do have lingering respect for a winery that years ago helped get the Washington wine industry off the ground by promoting around the world not only their own Chateau Ste Michelle wines but the wines of other, presumably unrelated Washington wineries, at a time when nobody had heard of the state's wine.