Wine Focus January 2014: Chateauneuf du Pape & GSM Blends

[David M. Bueker]

And to start...
2000 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reserve
Exactly what I was expecting from this wine: kirsch, herbs, earth, saddle leather and a velvety structure. Lovely winter fare.

And to start...
2000 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reserve
Exactly what I was expecting from this wine: kirsch, herbs, earth, saddle leather and a velvety structure. Lovely winter fare.

I love Pegau David, but alas, their prices have risen above my ability to buy them.

[David M. Bueker]

Pegau in "off vintages" (there are very few true off vintages these days, just less heralded ones) can often be had at bargain prices from places like Premier Cru.

One of my favorite CdPs is Clos du Mont-Olivet.

I was fond of Chante Cigale, which Brookline Liquor Mart in Boston used to bring in, but they don't carry it anymore. Does anyone know where one can obain Chante Cigale CdP in New England?

-Paul W.

I see Hart Davis in Chicago and a shop in Florida have the 2000 Pegau Reserve for $75, which seems like a bargain.

[David M. Bueker]

Cheaper than the current release!

Hahn seems to be available locally, what kind of reputation does this winery have?

Hahn seems to be available locally, what kind of reputation does this winery have?

Bob, Hahn Estate winery is a rather large winery located near Soledad Ca. They grow their own grapes and make rather decent wines for their price range. Art Nathan was for several years their head winemaker there and was a member/poster here on the WLDG many years ago. After Art and Niki Hahn (the owner always wins) decided to part ways Art went to work for Meridian vineyards which was owned by Fosters wine group (the people who make Fosters beer in Australia)> I believe Art is retired now, but I am not sure if he is doing anything in wine anymore. I moved on from Hahn after Art left there so am not real sure how their wines are anymore. Try a bottle and let us know. Or try a bottle and pm me.

2012 SCHERRER DRY ROSE', SONOMA COUNTY, CA. Screwcap or Stelvin closure. 13%abv. 60% Syrah grapes and 40% Grenache. The wine in the glass is a pretty coral color--perhaps closer to orange than pink in shade. It is slightly astringent in a good way and quite refreshing on the palate. I find red berries and citrus notes on the nose and tart red fruits, especially pomegranate on the palate. There is also a suggestion of ruby red grapefruit. This wine was really enjoyable with chicken thighs baked with vegetables (and 1/2 cup of the wine.) I gave it 88 points on CellarTracker but debated between 88 or 89. I have two more bottles and may include it in a church fundraiser tasting in February.

[David M. Bueker]

Nice twist to the theme JC.

I see Hart Davis in Chicago and a shop in Florida have the 2000 Pegau Reserve for $75, which seems like a bargain.

Only relatively speaking. I bought the '00 and '01 on release for $39.99. I bought a couple of bottles of the '08 last year for $29.99. I no longer buy them in ballyhooed years, both for stylistic and economic reasons.

Mark Lipton

[David M. Bueker]

It's truly amazing how the less heralded vintages of Pegau get cleared out at prices below what the '98 sold for on release. Then there are the uber-ripe vintages which now cost $100 and taste like cherry jet fuel.

1998 Pegau Cuvee Reservee opened last night for dinner with Swiss steak. Color was medium-to-dark garnet-red with just a hint of bricking at the edge. Generous aromas of meat, leather and pepper that remind me of the smell you get when taking the saddle off a horse after a good workout. Some find this offensive and describe it as ‘barnyard’ but I like it and might say smells from a ‘clean barn’. Very clean tasting with plenty of the flavors that could only come from Chateauneuf du Pape. This is probably my favorite vintage of Pegau for drinking today.
Cheers, Gary

[David M. Bueker]

Nice! I may have to open another Pegau tonight!

[David M. Bueker]

1998 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Tradition - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (1/7/2014)
This was a birthday gift a couple of years ago, and clearly stored very well. The cork was perfect, and immediately upon opening there were aromas of cherry and herb. I left the wine in the glass for about 30 minutes, and then went back to it. Lots of very Chateauneuf typical aromas, focused on still lively red fruit and warm herbs. I did not pick up a ton of aged characte, so either this was stored really cold even before it got to me, or it's not ever going to pick up the warm leather/earth elements. The mouthfeel was quite silky, and I did pick up a richness that reminded me of other aged Southern Rhone blends, so maybe it just needs more time to pick up the uances on the nose. Either way it was a very nice wine.

I will probably open a CdP mid-month but have both a white and a red Burgundy planned for the next week. Why aren't we hearing from Julia?

[David M. Bueker]

Maybe a poke is in order.

1998 Domaine du Pégaü Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
Wow! The fuzzy tannins of yore have now been civilized and the mouthfeel is downright silky. Tarry (like an Amador Zin) and mineral-inflected dark cherry fruit with a nicely acidic spine. Unlike some previous encounters, this bottle was not Bretty in the least and bore few signs of the hot year that produced it.

Without question, this was the most appealing CdP I've opened up in a couple of years. It was fresh, food-friendly and lush without any sense of overripeness or heat. I'm glad I have more of it, though I'm unsure whether other bottles will be as good as this one was.

Mark Lipton

I'm glad I have more of it, though I'm unsure whether other bottles will be as good as this one was.
Mark Lipton

Mark-
I'd be optimistic on the other bottles. I opened a bottle of this a week or so back, the aromas were awesome and Norma reported it was V.G.S.. I think there are 3 or 4 more in the cellar awaiting future evaluation to see if my optimism is warranted.

[David M. Bueker]

1998 Domaine du Pégaü Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
Wow! The fuzzy tannins of yore have now been civilized and the mouthfeel is downright silky. Tarry (like an Amador Zin) and mineral-inflected dark cherry fruit with a nicely acidic spine. Unlike some previous encounters, this bottle was not Bretty in the least and bore few signs of the hot year that produced it.

Without question, this was the most appealing CdP I've opened up in a couple of years. It was fresh, food-friendly and lush without any sense of overripeness or heat. I'm glad I have more of it, though I'm unsure whether other bottles will be as good as this one was.

Mark Lipton

I have two, and will be looking to open one ASAP. Thanks for the enablement.

[Robin Garr]

Domaine du Cayron 2010 Gigondas ($34.99)

Clear dark garnet shading to a clear edge. Pleasant Rhone aromas, berries and leather and dried mixed herbs, leading into a dry, tart and tannic flavor with hints of clay and stony minerality. It carries its 14% alcohol well. It's 70% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 14% Syrah and 1% Mourvedre. U.S. importer: Vanguard Wines LLC, Columbus, Ohio. (Jan. 9, 2014)

FOOD MATCH: GSM is made to accompany rare red meat, steak or roast, beef or lamb, game or even grilled poultry or duck. It works well, too, with plant-based dishes brought up to meet a red; it was a big winner with a "meaty" red-lentil curry with browned onions and lima beans.

WHEN TO DRINK: Great vintages of Gigondas - including 2010 - can last for 20 years or more, assuming, always, excellent and undisturbed cellar conditions around 55F (13C). It was really a shame to drink this one so young, although as noted, the strategy of setting it aside in the recorked bottle for several days did make it more approachable.

VALUE: Gigondas isn't a cheap wine, but it falls into the "sweet spot" where higher price purchases memorable wine worth contemplating or cellaring for the future. That said, my local $35 price tag was a bit dear, as Wine-Searcher.com reports a $30 median for Cayron Gigondas with some vendors offering it for $25.
http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Cayro ... g_site=WLP

WEB LINK: Here's a short report on Domaine du Cayron, with links to fact sheets on the 2010 and 2011 Gigondas, from regional importer Michael Skurnik Wines.
http://www.skurnikwines.com/prospects.c ... ect_id=638

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Find vendors and compare prices for Domaine du Cayron Gigondas on Wine-Searcher.com.
http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Cayro ... g_site=WLP

Looking for something a little less pricey? Check out these links to 500 French Southern Rhone blends on Wine-Searcher.com.
http://www.wine-searcher.com/grape-577- ... g_site=WLP

1999 Nostos is an SGM + R. This was the 3rd vintage from Ted Manousakis vineyard located on the mountains of Crete. The flavors of these early wines were dominated by the wild herbs (mostly rosemary and thyme) growing near the vineyards and the use of mostly new oak. They were fruit forward and fairly low in acid. Currently this bottle of 1999 was showing more subtle flavors and the oak has integrated quite nicely.
Wines from the early years were made with the assistance of Pascal Marchand and while I liked the wines they didn’t resemble Rhone’s. Somewhere in the mid 2000’s Laurence Feraud of Pegau started consulting and the wines became quite different.
I have not seen Nostos in the Midwest for years. Are they in your markets?
Cheers, Gary

[David M. Bueker]

Had the 2001 Pegau yesterday, and it was totally outstanding! It eclipsed the 2000 which was no slouch. More complexity in the 2001, more herbs and earth. If you've got any, try one!

I just checked my cellar records and see that it's been over a year since I've opened a 2001 Pegau. I will fix that as soon as I get over a cold. I have been a big fan of the 2001's. I have been hitting my 2000's pretty hard because they don't seem to be improving and some even seem past their prime. I've had lots of bottle variation in this vintage since day 1. 1998 has been my favorite for some time now (excluding the 1989 and 1990's which could reach the greatness of 1981 and 1985's).
Cheers, Gary