There were also frequent orange peel notes which do not greatly appeal to me.
Nevertheless quite a few of the entry level wines were very nice and a few of the ambitious cuvees were excellent. Amongst these the Hofstätter Pinot Nero Barthenau, the Voerzio Barolo Ceriquio, the Masciarelli red Marina Cvetic 01 and the Fontodi Syrah Case Via spring to mind.
Where the tasting sheet shows a price, I quote approximate retail prices below (the importer only quoted prices before 21% Value Added Tax).
MASCIARELLI-Abruzzo
As I have only recently realized the quality potential of wines from the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grape, I was glad to have the opportunity of tasting the wines of this estate, which is considered one of the leaders in the appellation, particularly with the help of the estate’s representative who spoke admirable English (those present were broadly divided into those who communicated in good English or in rough French).
I enjoyed the basic white TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO 2005 (EUR
which showed freshness and minerality and some flesh. However, I disliked on present showing the up-market MARINA CVETIC TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO 2003, smooth complex nose dominated by oak and rich palate dominated by butterscotch with some minerality, and even more so the MARINA CVETIC CHARDONNAY 2003, even more butterscotch, rounder less mineral and more buttery than the Trebbiano (both EUR 32). The representative agreed about the malt and butterscotch, attributed them to the terroir and claimed that they would come into balance with more age; I wonder.
I liked the basic MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO 2004 (EUR 11), nice dark fruit with some leather notes. The greater depth and complexity of the MARINA CVETIC MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO 2003 (EUR 19) was immediately noticeable but I was bothered by the malt notes on the after-taste, but much less than with the two whites. ROSSO APRUTINE 2003 is a new addition to the estate’s portfolio (I cannot find this name in any reference books); it displayed deep plum fruit, slightly brooding with good balance but a malt after-taste. VILLA GEMMA MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO 2000 (EUR 51) showed even more depth with dark fruit and cherry aromas, a rich fruit cake notes and good length; fine and close to its peak, I think. My favourite was MARINA CVETIC MONTEPULCIANO D’ABRUZZO 2001 (EUR 19) which showed depth of fruit with great freshness, mineral and leather notes, good structure and that savoury tang which I often find in great Tuscan wines; fine with further development potential, I think.
GORELLI LA POTAZZINE – Montalcino
Orange peel notes on the ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2003 (EUR 19) and much purer and brighter fruit on the 2005. As befitting its rank the BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO LA POTAZZINE 2001 (EUR 45) showed greater depth and complexity with cherry and candied fruit notes.
CASTELLO DI MONASTERO – Castelnuovo Beradenga
A big range of nice wines here but nothing really outstanding. They were presented by the jovial owner, Lionello Marchesi.
The basic SANGIOVESE TOSCANA IGT 2004 (EUR 9,50) was a bit bland. The CHIANTI SUPERIORE “MONTETONDO” 2004 (EUR 10,50) had rather more personality and nice fruit. There was a step up in refinement with the CHIANTI CLASSICO “TOSCANA” 2004 (EUR 13), while the MORELLINO DI SCANSANO 2003 (EUR 13) showed orange peel notes but greater power and savoury tang than the previous. There was a noticeable step up to the CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA 2000 (EUR 21), which showed quite complex and fragrant dark fruit aromas and candied fruit and cherry brandy notes on the palate. ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2003(EUR 15) was fresh and mineral but with a slight metallic note and BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2000 (EUR 35) seemed less focussed in aroma but the palate was already very approachable, round, quite soft with some depth.
And now for some wines not on the tasting list. I did not like the CHIANIT CLASSICO RISERVA 2001 as much as the 2000; more complexity and structure but I did not care for some orange peel notes. SPLENDIDO 2001, 70% Sangiovese and 30% Merlot, was full and smooth and INFINITO 2001, 60% Sangiovese and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon showed good fruit, structure and length. When I commented that I liked my Sangiovese less blended with Bordeaux varieties but preferred the backbone of Cabernet Sauvignon in Infinito to the smooth jamminess of Merlot in Splendido, Mr. Marchesi agreed, dismissing the latter as being “for women”!
PODERE POGGIO SCALETE – Greve in Chianti
IL CARBONAIONE 2002 (100% Sangiovese Grosso) showed attractively fresh fruit and surprising depth and structure for a weak vintage while IL CABONAIONE 2003(both years EUR 37) was rounder, less fresh but more concentrated and complex marred for now by a malt after-taste.
TENUTA FONTODI – Panzano in Chianti
This estate has been one of my favourites and I have visited it and bought wine there twice. On neither occasion did I see the owner Giovanni Manetti, so I was pleased to meet him here; the more so since the Pinot Nero and Syrah, which were not available for tasting at my visits to the estate, were on show here. I had already tasted the other wines some two months ago during my visit but my impressions here were somewhat different.
The CHIANTI CLASSICO 2004(EUR 19) was showing beautiful fruit and elegant structure and was singing more sweetly than at the estate and than a bottle opened at home. CHIANTI CLASSICO “VIGNA DEL SORBO” 2000 (EUR 37) was full open and was showing rich candied fruit. CHIANTI CLASSICO “VIGNA DEL SORBO” 2001 showed more structure and Chianti-type savoury backbone than 2000 but I was bothered by malt hints on the finish which I do not recall from the sample at the estate. Likewise I do not remember the malt note on the finish of FLACCIANELLO DELLA PIEVE 2003 (EUR 49) but in other respects it was the same closed concentrated blockbuster, which needs time to show what it can deliver. As I have already bought bottles of all these (at considerably lower prices), I will be able to see how they develop and, in particular, note whether the malt after-taste on the last two integrates well with time.
PINOT NERO CASE VIA 1999 (EUR 28) was soft and velvety but a bit bland with orange hints on the nose. SYRAH CASE VIA 2003 (EUR 35) showed a lot more personality with cherry notes in its aroma, richness and good structure; fine potential. Then Mr. Manetti pulled a bottle of SYRAH CASE VIA 1996, an unfashionable vintage in Tuscany, from under the table; the nose was more developed, this time with sour cherry notes, and the palate though less powerful than the 03 showed at this stage greater freshness, complexity (with some candied notes on the long finish), depth and above all elegance; a lovely wine showing what 03 may become in a more powerful vein. I complimented Mr. Manetti on the fine showing of his Syrah but said the I did not think that the Pinot Nero showed so much personality; he agreed and pointed me in the direction of a wine from Hofstätter across the room to show what Pinot Nero can achieve in Italy.
TENUTA J. HOFSTÄTTER – Termeno –Alto Adige
PINOT NERO BARTHENAU “VIGNA SANT URBANO” 1995 (EUR 34) was, for me, the wine of the day. Almost explosive yet refined, fragrant and complex cherry tinted aromas on the nose led to an elegant, velvety and extremely long palate with sour cherry and kirsch notes and a beautifully balanced acidity with resolved structure. My first really outstanding Pinot Noir from outside Burgundy and Champagne.
E. PIRA & FIGLI – Barolo
I came to this table with the taste of the Hofstätter Pinot Nero still filling my mouth. Yet with the guidance of the dynamic and articulate Chiara Boschis, I went straight on to the DOLCETTO D’ALBA 2005 (EUR 10); this showed another exuberant nose of soft red fruit with an attractively bitter tang (nothing like so refined as the Hofstätter yet not overshadowed) followed by a palate which invites quaffing, “gourmand” (untranslatable) is the word; I would like to drink lots of this in the next few weeks as I fear that it will become less exuberant without acquiring much complexity later on. The BARBERA D’ALBA 2004 (EUR 16) seemed subdued after this but the fruit was fresh and subtle; malt after-taste though. The BAROLO “CANNUBI” 2001 (EUR 54) was, of course, on a different plane; aromatically quite closed but showing deep subtle fruit, ripe tannins, excellent balance, elegance and length; fine. I complimented Ms Boschis on the elegance and balance of this wine and suggested that it was “traditional” in style; she replied that her methods for Barolo are quite “modern” but, as I could taste, these do not mean rich vanillin and chocolaty wines short on balance. I think that this is an excellent estate.
TRAVERSA GIUSEPPE & FIGLI – Cascina Chiabotto – Neive near Barbaresco
Quite a big range here of mainly nicely drinkable but not really outstanding wines. I was not convinced by the ageing Dolcetto 1999 and Barbera 1993 (iodine aromas on the latter). I liked much better the IL CIABOT LANGHE NEBBIOLO 2001 (EUR 16); quite complex and elegant with good length. I also liked BARBARESCO SORI CIABOT 2001 (EUR 29); complex aromas of dark fruit and leather on a rich body with good acidity and minerality. STRADERI 2003 (EUR 28) was less to my taste; sweetish on nose and on attack and mid-palate but a structured finish (I am confused as to the correct appellation here; the tasting sheet says LANGHE ROSSO but I think that the charming Mr. Traversa was telling me in fractured French that it was really BARBARESCO). There was also pleasant and refreshing bubbly; an ARNEIS, mineral and fresh, and a MOCATO D’ASTI CANOVA, sweetish but aromatic and attractive. (The bottles of this estate have pretty labels drawn by Traversa’s wife in a “naive” style.)
ROBERT ANSELMI – Monteforte d’Alpone near Verona
CAPITEL CROCE 2003 (EUR 17) – 100% Garganega – showed lovely aromas of honey and white fruit and a delicious minerality; fine. REALDA CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2001 (EUR 19) was very good showing attractive tangy fruit and leather notes.
GIANNI VOERZIO – La Morra
BAROLO LA SERRA 1998 (EUR 62) showed complex aromas of candied fruit and a ripe fruit cake and somewhat jammy impression on the palate.
ROBERT VOERZIO – La Morra
I entered this temple of the high priest of modernists with apprehension but in the event was very impressed with the quality, although my heart still lies with the producers of more restrained and elegant wines, such as Aldo Conterno.
BAROLO “VIGNETO LA SERRA” 1998 (EUR 119) was more classy than that of his namesake with deeper less jammy fruit and tangy backbone but still a little closed. BAROLO “VIGNETO CEREQUIO” 1998 (EUR 119) was more open showing cherry brandy notes in its complex aromas and richness coupled with great elegance and length; very fine.
Some criticise R.Voerzio for oakiness in his wines but in these two 1998s the wood was beautifully integrated.
Although there were very many more wines on show, I decided to quit the tasting on this high note.