Wine Focus for July: Let's go ... Gamay!

[Robin Garr]

Okay, so we had a hard time reaching consensus. Let's go with a grape that just about nobody hates. Gamay at its best can be subtle, mineral, complex and interesting. When it's not so good, it's still fruity, and that's okay.

So, bring your Gamays, chill them a little if you wish, and extra credit if you bring something artisanal, although the flower bottles won't be banned.

Cool!

I have a bottle of Clusel-Roche "Traboules" Coteaux du Lyonnais to try out!

[David M. Bueker]

The 2013 Edmunds St. John Bone Jolly Rosé has been uncapped. Lots of strawberry and cranberry goodness. Great antidote to the hot and humid weather that finally arrived in Connecticut.

I plan to open at least one Gamay from Edmunds St. John and one or more Beaujolais Cru this month.

[Robin Garr]

I was out tonight, but the '13 Bone-Jolly is high up in the tasting queue.

Last night with the carnitas quesadillas I had the 2009 Bone-Jolly. Not the rose, the "full on" version. Like the rose it had cranberries and other red fruit, but it was underpinned by spices and freshly turned earth and mouth-watering tartness. It was wayyy to easy to drink!

Probably best after a day or two I'd imagine!

Slow roasted chicken on the grill called for some slightly chilled gamay. 2004 Potel-Aviron Fleurie Vieilles Vignes was glossy, integrated, and fairly dull. Aviron treats his gamay using "Burgundian methods" (i.e., non-carbonic) and the wine does see some new oak. I haven't had this one in a few years but the first few sips reminded me that this didn't wow me back then either as it was lacking the acidic lift and brightness that I want from gamay. This was easy enough to drink but I'm glad I don't have any more.

[David M. Bueker]

Gamay and new oak...shudder.

Yuppers...only 20% or so new but even still, that's 20% too much.

[David M. Bueker]

Sipping on a glass of the Lapierre Morgon MMVII, and it is just heavenly. The texture is like silk, the aromas billow from the glass, and it is long on flavor while being weightless on the palate. Truly a wow wine.

[Robin Garr]

Edmunds St. John 2013 "Bone-Jolly" El Dorado County Witters Vineyard Gamay Noir Rosé ($19.99)

Clear rosy pink, the rich color of wild Alaskan line-caught salmon, not Atlantic farmed. [wink] Good, fresh berry scent, wild strawberries maybe, subtle not overpowering. Fresh and crisp, mouth-filling red fruit and zippy, lemon-squirt acidity. Mouth-watering and delicious, a solid but not overwhelming 13% alcohol. Fine with summer fare or sipped on its own. (July 2, 2014)

FOOD MATCH: Excellent on the first night with a light, summery fresh garden salad with a light tomato vinaigrette and bite-size bits of fried chicken. The leftovers were just as good the next day with a spicy okra-and-tomato gumbo.

WHEN TO DRINK: WineLovers Discussion Group participants have reported startling longevity in the bottle, with the 2006 recently reported as still drinking well. I'm not sure I would risk eight years, but quality production and a sturdy metal screwcap do ensure reasonable cellaring time.

VALUE: My $20 local retail price was bang on target with Wine-Searcher.com's national average price. While this might seem a little spendy for a pink wine, this one's worth it for balance, finesse and class coupled with just plain good flavor.

WEB LINK: The winery Web page covers the basics with well organized information. Here's a link to a detailed fact sheet on last year's vintage, the 2012 Bone-Jolly Gamay Noir Rosé.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find online vendors for Edmunds St. John Bone-Jolly Rosé on Wine-Searcher.com. To locate additional sources in regions where it's distributed, check this List of distributors in U.S. states (and Japan) on the winery Website.

Whilst out butterflying in the northern sandhills, bumped into some wine folk at a local campsite. Knew them from a local Edmonton wine tasting group.

The 2012 Château Des Charmes Gamay Noir they were happy to chug down was slightly chilled with red currant and cherry. Hint of oak did not deter, light bodied, nice refreshing finish. Soft tannins , nice wine from Ontario.

I've been to Chateau Des Charmes several times, but not recently. They have actually isolated their own clone of Gamay, referred to as Gamay Droit.

[Robin Garr]

I've been to Chateau Des Charmes several times ...

Didn't a bunch of us go there on one of the NiagaraCool tours, Howie? I remember a pretty classy operation.

Yes we did, Robin. I believe it was the first of several NiagaraCOOLs, in 2005. We had a very nice tour, led by Paul Bosc Jr. and a tasting hosted by Paul Sr. Then, the next day, Paul Jr. and his wife, Michelle came to our picnic.

Heer are some old tasting notes by Paul Bosc.

"I noticed a single Gamay Noir vine growing straight up and taller than the others in the block. I took cuttings and propagated the vine The wine did have some of the classic Gamay characteristics, cherry flavours and a medium body style, but there was also a layer of complexity that was a pleasant surprise. Gamay ‘Droit’ also has warm spicy notes and a hint of smokiness that is quite lovely. It is also higher in alcohol making it more mid-weight in style. The wine was different enough from standard Gamay that we thought we actually had a different clone on our hands. Once the genetic testing was done we found out that Canada’s first vinifera vine was born right in our vineyard! We were granted the International Plant Breeders’ rights, a sort of patent, so no one else in the world can grow this vine or make this wine called Gamay Noir ‘Droit’. Because this wine is so interesting in the glass we decided to not oak age it."

Châteaumeillant Version Originale 2012 – Domaine Geoffrenet-Morval – Alc.12.5% - (c.€10)

AFAIK this is the first time I have drunk a Châteaumeillant in spite of the fact that it is classed as a Loire valley appellation; a region not unknown to me. In fact Châteaumeillant is located well to the south of the Loire river itself close to the Loire tributary L’Indre. It is roughly due south of Paris and on a similar latitude to the Mâconnais. The main grape variety is Gamay but a lot of cuvées are blended with Pinot Noir. This one is 100% Gamay.

At first this wine seemed lean and somewhat unyielding with mineral to the fore but as the wine aired and gained a degree or two (C) in temperature, it opened up and grew on me to the extent that I would have liked a bigger bottle! The wine was medium bodied at most and remained quite lean but well focussed and it exuded an exuberantly savoury character showing plum fruit with prune hints, a generous sprinkling of pepper, lively minerals, tangy acidity and a firm finish. Good++

Gamay varietal character was obvious but, on the basis of my first sample, I would have a difficult job saying what contribution the Châteaumeillant terroir makes to distinguish this wine from Touraine or Anjou Gamay or upper Loire basin ones like Roannais and Forez.

Did you buy in one of your new wine shops Tim?

Did you buy in one of your new wine shops Tim?

Yes, at a small town called Orbec about 20km away. Orbec came through WW2 unscathed and has a lot of of charm. It also has family associations. My mother and aunt were sent to study at a convent there in the 20s to learn French and my grandson attended the same school some 80 years later. Amusingly, my mother learned French to a bilingual standard; however, my aunt failed at that but converted to Catholicism .

Great story Tim, finding any other gems in the locale?

2009 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Cote du Py Vielles Vignes. 13% abv. Very dark purple and opaque. I found myself just enjoying this rather than analyzing it. It was in a great drinking window. In some ways it's the most rewarding wine I've had in several weeks. Really easy to drink. I should have bought more!

I found myself just enjoying this rather than analyzing it. It was in a great drinking window. In some ways it's the most rewarding wine I've had in several weeks. Really easy to drink. I should have bought more!

All are common refrains when I talk about Beaujolais.

I found myself just enjoying this rather than analyzing it. It was in a great drinking window. In some ways it's the most rewarding wine I've had in several weeks. Really easy to drink. I should have bought more!

All are common refrains when I talk about Beaujolais.

Here's one to which that refrain did not apply but maybe for no fault of the wine -

St.Amour 2012 (I think)- Louis Tête

Ordered in a restaurant to go with Patrick's and my duck while the others were eating lobster with an excellent Chablis VV 2012 from Château de Maligny. The problem was that the wine was quite simply too warm (20+°C) resulting in a bland rather thick liquid with none of the liveliness which makes the charm of Beaujolais. My fault in part for forgetting to suggest that the half-bottle should join the Chablis in the ice bucket for a few minutes but, when I tasted it, the duck was already served.