The theme of our monthly wine group’s tasting in October was “in with the old, out with the new”. Focusing on the resurging interest of “concrete” as a fermentation and storage vessel for wine. Our gracious host, Ray gave a detailed history of the use of the kvevri (in Georgia), pithos (in Greece) and the dolla (in Roman times). These vessels resembled an amphora without handles, and were often buried below ground level.
For centuries European and “Old World” winemakers used concrete vessel. (Today some of the older and prestigious wine producers still use concrete vessels, sometimes in combination with wood and stainless steel vessels). Prior to prohibition some of California’s oldest wineries also used concrete vessels, problem was no one in the US made them so they had to be imported from France. When the California wine industry arose from “the dead” (after prohibition) the majority of wine producers went to stainless steel and wood.
For informational purposes Ray quickly discussed the difference between cement and concrete. Basically cement is (any) binding material that holds other material tightly together. Concrete is a stone-like structure when cement and other material (sand, gravel, and stones) are mixed together. Thus the concrete vessel itself could posses the same terroir of the vineyard where the vines are grown (if the sand, gravel, and stones are collected from the vineyard site). Whether this will impact the characteristics (or “add” more terroir) to a wine, I have my doubts. (Concrete vessels (besides the obvious things, its thermal properties) are supposed to behave like both stainless steel and wood vessels- being neutral (does not add or take away) at the sane time capable of some oxygen ingress (allowing the wine to round and smooth out). Another factor that influences the wine is the shape of the concrete vessel.
The most interesting wines of the evening were the third flight, which consisted of two 2012 Chardonnay wines from California. Upon immediate evaluating the appearance of wines A and B; the richer and darker golden color of wine B was possible a good indication of oak influence. Aroma and bouquet / wise, wine A was very fruit driven (fruit/ citrus notes) which almost came across as being singular dimensional but with great intensity and focus; Wine B had a similar fruit/ citrus noted profile with a hint of vanilla and some herbs and spicy notes thrown into the mix as well (IMHO coming across with similar intensity and focus but in a balanced multi dimensional way). After-taste / wise; both had a pleasant and lingering aftertaste but wine B had a slight bitter aspect on the back end.
The wines from the Wagner Family of California:
Wine A- Mer Soleil 2012 Silver Unoaked Chardonnay (my score 14.5; Group avg 14.8 $20 USD)
Wine B- Mer Soleil 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (my score 13.5; Group avg 14.5 $27 USD)