The place for all things wine, focused on serious wine discussions.

Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

Moderators: Jenise, Robin Garr, David M. Bueker

no avatar
User

Robin Garr

Rank

Forum Janitor

Posts

21875

Joined

Fri Feb 17, 2006 1:44 pm

Location

Louisville, KY

Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Robin Garr » Sun Feb 01, 2015 4:58 pm

Does it matter when wine makers practice organic viticulture and vinification (okay, vine-growing and wine-making)? Can you taste the benefits (or the flaws) of organic, biodynamic or the less well-defined "natural" wine in the glass?

That's where our Wine Focus deliberations will take us in February, as we try to enjoy and learn the nuances of natural and organic wines, the motives of the creative people who choose to make them, and our reactions as wine lovers.

"Organic" is now generally recognized as a legal term in the U.S. and the European Economic Community, for wines produced in those regions and wines imported there, which covers a very large swath of the world's wines.

"Biodynamic" is a complicated sub-genre of organic, wine growing based on the principles set out by Rudolph Steiner, who brings a homeopathic sensibility to vine growing and makes decisions on such variables as phase of the moon and, perhaps most famously, odd tricks like burying a cow's horn filled with a mix of manure and other nostrums in a cow's horn buried in the vineyard at night. Frankly, this sounds totally woo-woo to me, and yet - perhaps because it represents a laser-like focus on the vines - I have to confess that most biodynamic wines I've tasted - like those of Marc Kreydenweiss in Alsace - are extellent.

"Natural," as mentioned, is loosely defined, and in some quarters controversial. If we accept the defniition offered by the forum's Joy Lindholm, though, it's a style of wine that I like very much:

When I think of "natural wine", I'm thinking more of the non-interventionist style of making wine commonly found in portfolios like Dressner, etc. No added chemicals, yeasts, very little messing with in general, rather than the way "natural" has been abused when regards to labeling food.


It's already February, and it's a short month, so bring on your organic, biodynamic and natural wines, and let's taste and talk!
no avatar
User

Tim York

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

4970

Joined

Tue May 09, 2006 2:48 pm

Location

near Lisieux, France

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Tim York » Mon Feb 02, 2015 1:16 pm

Now that I write a CT TN every time I open a bottle at home, I thought it would easy to pick up something interesting to post. However, backtracking through my last four pages of TNs, I am surprised, even shocked, to find only about 5 from producers listed by RVF as being organic/biodynamic and, fortuitously, I have already posted elsewhere on all these wines. At least one whom I thought organic, Alain Graillot, is not listed though he belongs to the Union des Gens de Métier, in which most members are organic.

The fact that a producer is organic is therefore clearly not a criterion of choice for me, although I am very friendly to idea of minimum intervention and as little use of chemicals as possible. On the other hand, I am not intellectually receptive to the wacky side of biodynamics but have to admit that a high proportion of its practitioners are found amongst the very best wine-growers, at least in France. I think that an explanation for this may be that only really conscientious vignerons anxious to produce the best possible from their terroirs are prepared to take on the onerous biodynamic specifications. I discussed it with Noël Pinguet (formerly Huet) and he expressed himself agnostic about the theoretical basis of Steiner-ism but simply added that he found that it worked so he continued to use it. A few years ago I recall a thread here where one guy, I forget whom, felt so strongly against the non-scientific theory of biodynamics that he refused to drink such wines :shock: .

I will backtrack further into my TNs and make a conscious effort in the next 4 weeks to buy only organic/biodynamic.
Tim York
no avatar
User

Bob Parsons Alberta

Rank

aka Doris

Posts

10875

Joined

Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:09 pm

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon Feb 02, 2015 1:58 pm

Conscious effort here too Tim, easy for me to pick out downtown as these wines have green stickers on the shelf!!
no avatar
User

Joy Lindholm

Rank

Ultra geek

Posts

451

Joined

Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:41 am

Location

Denver, CO

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Joy Lindholm » Mon Feb 02, 2015 4:34 pm

I'm excited to join in on this month's focus, as the plague has finally left our home and we have our taste buds back!
no avatar
User

Robin Garr

Rank

Forum Janitor

Posts

21875

Joined

Fri Feb 17, 2006 1:44 pm

Location

Louisville, KY

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Robin Garr » Mon Feb 02, 2015 4:54 pm

Joy Lindholm wrote:I'm excited to join in on this month's focus, as the plague has finally left our home and we have our taste buds back!

Yippee! :lol:
no avatar
User

Bob Parsons Alberta

Rank

aka Doris

Posts

10875

Joined

Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:09 pm

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Feb 03, 2015 1:14 pm

Domaine La Berangeraie , Cahors is quite well known as an organic producer and I have posted here on previous vintages, especially the `05, so here is my impression of the `09 Cuvee Maurin that I opened before Xmas.

TN: 2009 Domaine La Berangeraie Cuvee Maurin, Cahors.

Very dark red with some violet tinges on the rim. The nose opens out nicely after a 2 hr decant....berry, spice, black fruits, very aromatic.
Initial entry thought is dry, still some tannins, quite tart in fact. "Boysenberry pie" from across the table...spot on I thought. Showed a hint of sweetness as it opened more plus some cherry flavors. Still needs some time I guess, $26 Cdn
no avatar
User

Robin Garr

Rank

Forum Janitor

Posts

21875

Joined

Fri Feb 17, 2006 1:44 pm

Location

Louisville, KY

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Robin Garr » Tue Feb 03, 2015 1:48 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta wrote:organic producer

Good TN, Bob. Do you feel that the producer's choice to go organic has made a difference in the quality of this wine? One of the things it might be fun to get at this month is, does "organic" matter in the glass? I know some of us - me included - like the idea of sustainable, earth-friendly agriculture. But whether organic shows in the product? That's a tougher question.
no avatar
User

Bob Parsons Alberta

Rank

aka Doris

Posts

10875

Joined

Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:09 pm

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Feb 03, 2015 4:57 pm

Good question boss! Never noticed in previous vintage and this one not sure it makes a difference. I feel sure the chemists here will be along with wise words of wisdom :lol: .

I should point out that the Europeans would appear to have different ideas on organic wine. Anyhows this is of interest>

http://www.wineanorak.com/organicfullresults.htm
no avatar
User

Tim York

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

4970

Joined

Tue May 09, 2006 2:48 pm

Location

near Lisieux, France

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Tim York » Wed Feb 04, 2015 3:39 am

When I turned last night's bottle round to check the back label for its varietal content (Grenache/Syrah), I was delighted to see organic icons. I picked up this bottle at a supermarket for<€6 because the Soard brothers (Patrick & Vincent) who own the Fenouillet estate were regular visitors to Belgium. They are both very nice approachable men and I always found their reds enjoyable without artifice and less heavy than many from the S.Rhône. In particular their Muscat de Beaumes de Venise can be celestial.

Organic was not my choice criterion but it was a bonus and I don't think it is fanciful to connect the absence of artifice and purity of fruit with that practice. The estate's website http://www.domaine-fenouillet.fr/# says that their father brought them up to respect the environment which led them naturally to organic practices. I think that is the key.

2012 Domaine de Fenouillet Côtes du Rhône - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (2/3/2015)
This is a highly enjoyable CDR from a reliable organic producer. Deep primary colour, fruity tangy nose of darked fruit laced with raspberry and a medium/full bodied palate with good acidity and plenty more raspberry laced pure dark fruit, pepper and Med herbs and a touch of liquorice infusing the tannins on the finish which showed no signs of alcoholic burn (13.5%). Good wine and brilliant QPR at €6.

Posted from CellarTracker
Tim York
no avatar
User

David M. Bueker

Rank

Childless Cat Dad

Posts

35967

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:52 am

Location

Connecticut

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by David M. Bueker » Wed Feb 04, 2015 12:46 pm

Is it ok as a wine geek to admit that I don't pay all that much attention to this anymore? The vast majority of the producers I buy from are staunch advocates of doing as little as is necessary to ensure healthy grapes, whether that means organic, biodynamic or maybe just a little "modern" farming every once in a while in extreme situations. It's all about repsect for the land.

It's not often that there is the opportunity to do a side by side comparison that takes out enough variables such that farming techniques are clearly delineated in the wines. The one thing I do recall from my trip to Germany, was visiting the Piesporter Goldtropfchen with Dieter Hoffmann (of Hoffmann-Simon), and seeing varios plots that were tended in different ways. The plots that were full on chemical were scraggly and lifeless.
Decisions are made by those who show up
no avatar
User

Joy Lindholm

Rank

Ultra geek

Posts

451

Joined

Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:41 am

Location

Denver, CO

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Joy Lindholm » Sat Feb 07, 2015 12:12 pm

I recently drank this wine from Vouvray from a producer who is known for his splendid single vineyard wines, but due to the hailstorm of 2013, produced a single cuvée labeled "Le 2013". Sadly many of his plots suffered total destruction, while others had only handfuls of grapes salvaged in each vine row. This wine might be hard to track down due to the lack of volume, but well worth the effort if anyone can locate it. It should retail around $25 or less. Certified organic and biodynamic labeling on the wine, he uses only native yeasts and low SO2.

2013 François Pinon Vouvray - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (2/7/2015)
Lovely dynamic wine that showed very differently based on serving temperature. Initial taste was on the warmer side (my preference) - it was loaded with spiced golden apples and framed with a steely minerality that carried through the finish. Day 2 - bottle was pulled out of the refrigerator and showed a dry Riesling-like limey tartness with the same mineral notes. Bright acidity, 16g/l rs, although my guess was more like 8. What a vibrant effort from such a tragic vintage!

Posted from CellarTracker
no avatar
User

Joy Lindholm

Rank

Ultra geek

Posts

451

Joined

Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:41 am

Location

Denver, CO

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Joy Lindholm » Sat Feb 07, 2015 12:34 pm

The wines of Domaine Saint Préfert and Isabel Ferrando just arrived yesterday at our restaurant. Happily, one of our guests ordered the Domaine Saint Préfert 2013 Côtes du Rhône "Clos Beatus Ille" and shared a bit with us, because of our excitement to have these wines. We will be taking a bottle of this home, so may have more detailed notes later, but I couldn't help but post a note about the several sips I tried. This wine left such an impression on me, I wish there was more of this to go around (Nebraska's total allocation is a mere 6 bottles)! A few details: 13.5% abv, 85% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 100% destemmed and aged for 6 months in vats. Isabel Ferrando purchased this domaine in 2003, and has practice organic farming methods for this as well as her domaine in Châteauneuf-du-Pape since 2009. The "Clos Beatus Ille" is sourced from La Lionne, which borders Châteauneuf, on the commune of Sorgues.

If I had been given this blind, I would have immediately guessed Burgundy. The nose was bursting full of dusty cherries and a delicateness I would have never thought could be found in Grenache. The first sip yielded the same cherry, but loads of spice. The more I tasted and pondered it, the more it reminded me of Trousseau. Bright and lively, I have never tried a more elegant Côtes du Rhône. I can't wait to see how this evolves over the course of a couple of hours.
no avatar
User

Rahsaan

Rank

Wild and Crazy Guy

Posts

9706

Joined

Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:20 pm

Location

New York, NY

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Rahsaan » Sat Feb 07, 2015 6:27 pm

Joy Lindholm wrote:I recently drank this wine from Vouvray from a producer who is known for his splendid single vineyard wines, but due to the hailstorm of 2013, produced a single cuvée labeled "Le 2013". Sadly many of his plots suffered total destruction, while others had only handfuls of grapes salvaged in each vine row. This wine might be hard to track down due to the lack of volume, but well worth the effort if anyone can locate it. It should retail around $25 or less. Certified organic and biodynamic labeling on the wine, he uses only native yeasts and low SO2.

2013 François Pinon Vouvray - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (2/7/2015)
Lovely dynamic wine that showed very differently based on serving temperature. Initial taste was on the warmer side (my preference) - it was loaded with spiced golden apples and framed with a steely minerality that carried through the finish. Day 2 - bottle was pulled out of the refrigerator and showed a dry Riesling-like limey tartness with the same mineral notes. Bright acidity, 16g/l rs, although my guess was more like 8. What a vibrant effort from such a tragic vintage!

Posted from CellarTracker


Nice. The only 2013s I had were the Huet secs, which I liked better than the 2012s, but am still not crazy about them.
no avatar
User

Tim York

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

4970

Joined

Tue May 09, 2006 2:48 pm

Location

near Lisieux, France

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Tim York » Sun Feb 08, 2015 3:42 am

Joy Lindholm wrote:Domaine Saint Préfert 2013 Côtes du Rhône "Clos Beatus Ille"
I wish there was more of this to go around (Nebraska's total allocation is a mere 6 bottles)! A few details: 13.5% abv, 85% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 100% destemmed and aged for 6 months in vats. Isabel Ferrando purchased this domaine in 2003, and has practice organic farming methods for this as well as her domaine in Châteauneuf-du-Pape since 2009. The "Clos Beatus Ille" is sourced from La Lionne, which borders Châteauneuf, on the commune of Sorgues.

If I had been given this blind, I would have immediately guessed Burgundy. The nose was bursting full of dusty cherries and a delicateness I would have never thought could be found in Grenache. The first sip yielded the same cherry, but loads of spice. The more I tasted and pondered it, the more it reminded me of Trousseau. Bright and lively, I have never tried a more elegant Côtes du Rhône. I can't wait to see how this evolves over the course of a couple of hours.


Joy, I have several times come across southern CDRs and "superior" appellations in the area with this quasi-Burgundian fruit and elegance, particularly from the north of the South in or close to the Drôme department like Dom.Gramenon and Dom.Grands Devers, and some on the right bank like Dom.Ste.Anne. Some of the cuvées concerned had a lot of Syrah, though. Dom.Saint-Préfert is a new one for me and I see that it comes from the CndP neighbourhood, where elegance of that sort is rarer with the outstanding and unaffordable exception of Ch.Rayas, said to be 100% Grenache.

How can you, as a restaurateur, cope with a wine like this when there are only 6 bottle in the whole state? :shock:

PS Dom. Gramenon is organic nowadays though it probably wasn't yet when I visited it and bought copiously in the late Philippe Laurent's lifetime (shot in a hunting accident :( ). He however had great respect for his environment and it showed. Incidentally I often share negative opinions of Robert Parker but Gramenon was one of his discoveries and he scored a bullseye here.
Tim York
no avatar
User

Carl Eppig

Rank

Our Maine man

Posts

4149

Joined

Tue Jun 13, 2006 1:38 pm

Location

Middleton, NH, USA

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Carl Eppig » Sun Feb 08, 2015 1:11 pm

2012 Trader Joe’s Reserve, Paso Robles, Carignane, Lot# 104 ($9.99 U.S., and alcohol level 13.5%). This wine is produced and bottled by Castoro Cellars with grapes certified organic by CCOF. It is a bold and rustic wine with black cherries and blackberries on the nose and upfront, it’s smooth with some noticeable oak in the middle, and finishes amazingly for such a young and inexpensive wine.

We matched it with broiled tenderloin steaks in bacon rasher, baked sweet potatoes, and Italian green beans. Great Saturday night meal!
no avatar
User

Tim York

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

4970

Joined

Tue May 09, 2006 2:48 pm

Location

near Lisieux, France

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Tim York » Mon Feb 09, 2015 3:47 am

I bought this wine in the autumn Foire aux Vins at Intermarché, not because the grapes are organic, which I didn't then know, but because the producer, Luc De Conti, has the reputation of being one of the best in the Berceracois and the price was modest (c€6). Hitherto I have enjoyed the estate's whites more than its reds. I particularly remember disliking a red La Gloire de Mon Père '05 at age 2-3 because of obtrusive oak. It was about time for another try especially as the wine was recommended as a value buy in RVF's survey of the offer at the Foires aux Vins.

Côtes de Bergerac Primo de Conti Vieilles Vignes 2009 - Château Tour des Gendres - Alc.14%, made from Merlot 40%, Malbec 30%, Cabernets 30%. I decanted because a previous bottle was inexpressive.

Colour still quite deep and primary but not opaque. Nose was very shy at first with the most prominent feature being struck match minerality (sulphur?) against a faint backdrop of plum; sniffing the nearly empty bottle 12 hours later the bouquet is much better balanced and more attractive with the fruit more prominent and a nice floral note. Palate was medium bodied with decent substance and depth, some attractive grainy minerals, lively acidity and firm tannic structure, to which the Malbec no doubt contributed. On the welcome side, there was no obtrusive oak but the aromatics were not very expressive apart from a fresh prune like note on the finish. My guess is that this wine will open up more down to road but the prune notes instil a touch of caution. Good potentially?

Was there any plus from organic? Hard to say and should an organic producer be using sulphur in amounts detectable on the nose?
Tim York
no avatar
User

Joy Lindholm

Rank

Ultra geek

Posts

451

Joined

Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:41 am

Location

Denver, CO

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Joy Lindholm » Mon Feb 09, 2015 12:51 pm

Tim York wrote:How can you, as a restaurateur, cope with a wine like this when there are only 6 bottle in the whole state?


I am not currently in a wine buying position (I'm the bar manager), but I know it causes a lot of frustration. Luckily, there are a ton of new great wines finally available in our market, so this one doesn't sting so much. Thanks for the other suggestions on CdRs to try - will keep an eye out for those.
no avatar
User

David M. Bueker

Rank

Childless Cat Dad

Posts

35967

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:52 am

Location

Connecticut

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by David M. Bueker » Mon Feb 09, 2015 3:44 pm

Was just thinking that the Foillard 3.14 I posted on in the main forum was very likely organic, and probably somewhere in that "natural" spectrum.
Decisions are made by those who show up
no avatar
User

Tim York

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

4970

Joined

Tue May 09, 2006 2:48 pm

Location

near Lisieux, France

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Tim York » Tue Feb 10, 2015 3:43 am

This bottle was yet another which I had purchased unaware that the producer uses organic methods. Strangely there were no organic symbols on the bottle but, from consulting the RVF guide confirmed by a visit to the producers website http://www.chateauducedre.com/origines.en.html , there seems no doubt that the grapes are grown using organic methods.

The Verhaeghe brothers at Château du Cèdre have been considered quality leaders in Cahors for a couple of decades but are criticised by Paul Strang in his book for a heavy hand with oak obscuring beautiful fruit in their top wines. However, IMO, cuvée le Cèdre (I have never had a mature GC) does manage to integrate its oak nicely after 10+ years in vintages which I have tried and there are reports that the Verhaeghes are now trying to dial back on its prominence.

This is their entry level red Cahors. Varietal composition is Malbec 90%, Merlot 5% and Tannat 5%.

2011 Château du Cèdre Cahors - France, Southwest France, Cahors (2/9/2015)
I am surprised by how well this Cahors tasted only in its 4th year. Colour was typical deep purple and black tinged red. Nose was lively with fresh red and black fruit with mineral and faint leather and olive touches. The palate was medium/full bodied and linear shaped with plenty of savoury fruit, grainy minerals, a little leather, non-aggressive tannic backbone and lively juicy acidity together with absence of obtrusive oak, which is not the case with this organic producer's more ambitious cuvées when so young. Though already expressive in a gutsy style, I guess this wine may get better after perhaps closing down for a period. Good+.

Posted from CellarTracker

PS I've just dug a bit further into the Verhaeghe website and have downloaded the estate's organic certification. It says for this 2011 "issu de raisins en conversion" and for the 2012 and 2013 "biologique". That's good enough for me :D .
Tim York
no avatar
User

Bob Parsons Alberta

Rank

aka Doris

Posts

10875

Joined

Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:09 pm

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Feb 10, 2015 8:25 am

TN: 2011 Ladera Sagrada Mencia Valdeorras A Portela.

Good natural cork, decant one hour no sediment noted. $22 Cdn, 13.5% alc

Medium purple in color, floral nose with berries and some cherry. Pretty good length, soft tannins, unable to see that Pinot Noir connection? Some cherry and spice, thought good acidity. A decent everyday red which should suit most palates.
no avatar
User

Tim York

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

4970

Joined

Tue May 09, 2006 2:48 pm

Location

near Lisieux, France

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Tim York » Thu Feb 12, 2015 3:35 am

I post this here because I want to compare this Côt (Malbec) from Touraine with my recent Château du Cèdre Cahors. The organic connection is tenuous at best. The estate belongs to a group called Terra Vitis but from its website http://www.terravitis.com/ there appears to be few specifics in their requirements and lots of "motherhood" statements about respect for environment, agriculture raisonnée (roughly = "sustainable"), etc. FWIW, they benefit from HVE (High Environmental Value) certification from the French Ministry of Agriculture. However the wine had delightful purity.

2009 Domaine La Chapiniere Touraine Garnon - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (2/11/2015)
It is interesting to compare this Touraine Côt (AKA Malbec) with the Cahors which I opened a couple of days ago. It is a lot less rugged and shows more charm and a silkier texture but lacks some of the class and, I guess, ageing potential of the Cahors. Colour nearly black as befits Malbec. Attractive nose of red fruit made more savoury by a splash of fresh blood and flinty minerals. Medium bodied with round welcoming soft red fruit stiffened by more blood, grainy minerals, lively acidity, quite silky texture and decent tannic grip towards the rather short finish. This is the only blemish on an otherwise delightful wine, gluggable in the same manner as Beaujolais, but with its own character. Good.

Posted from CellarTracker
Tim York
no avatar
User

win_fried

Rank

Ultra geek

Posts

101

Joined

Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:13 am

Location

Cologne, Germany

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by win_fried » Sun Feb 15, 2015 7:54 am

It must have been in the year 2001 when 20 € still seemed a lot of money for a single bottle of wine to us, when we occasionally listened to the owner of a wine shop who was trying to sell a bottle of 1999 Domaine Marcoux CdP to a female customer. He told her everything about biodynamic production, respecting moon phases, and maybe even about burying the horn of a cow in the vineyard. We started to giggle in the background which did not amuse him. But we also bought a bottle and returned a week later to buy a case.

We do not mind what makes this wine the way it is, but we cannot exclude that the production style might matter.

2009 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Decanted for two hours. Nose of prunes and cherry (in alcohol). The initial heat (15% alc.) blew off with time. Palate also has prunes, cherries and some spice and caramel. Impressive legs. Overall very round and balanced. Perfect match for Vietnamese style duck breast with Navets (turnips). Drinking nicely, already, but probably will get better with time.

Winfried

Posted from http://www.cellartracker.com
no avatar
User

Joy Lindholm

Rank

Ultra geek

Posts

451

Joined

Tue Sep 28, 2010 10:41 am

Location

Denver, CO

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Joy Lindholm » Sun Feb 15, 2015 3:55 pm

Tim York wrote:This bottle was yet another which I had purchased unaware that the producer uses organic methods. Strangely there were no organic symbols on the bottle but, from consulting the RVF guide confirmed by a visit to the producers website http://www.chateauducedre.com/origines.en.html , there seems no doubt that the grapes are grown using organic methods.

The Verhaeghe brothers at Château du Cèdre have been considered quality leaders in Cahors for a couple of decades but are criticised by Paul Strang in his book for a heavy hand with oak obscuring beautiful fruit in their top wines. However, IMO, cuvée le Cèdre (I have never had a mature GC) does manage to integrate its oak nicely after 10+ years in vintages which I have tried and there are reports that the Verhaeghes are now trying to dial back on its prominence.

This is their entry level red Cahors. Varietal composition is Malbec 90%, Merlot 5% and Tannat 5%.

2011 Château du Cèdre Cahors - France, Southwest France, Cahors (2/9/2015)
I am surprised by how well this Cahors tasted only in its 4th year. Colour was typical deep purple and black tinged red. Nose was lively with fresh red and black fruit with mineral and faint leather and olive touches. The palate was medium/full bodied and linear shaped with plenty of savoury fruit, grainy minerals, a little leather, non-aggressive tannic backbone and lively juicy acidity together with absence of obtrusive oak, which is not the case with this organic producer's more ambitious cuvées when so young. Though already expressive in a gutsy style, I guess this wine may get better after perhaps closing down for a period. Good+.

Posted from CellarTracker

PS I've just dug a bit further into the Verhaeghe website and have downloaded the estate's organic certification. It says for this 2011 "issu de raisins en conversion" and for the 2012 and 2013 "biologique". That's good enough for me :D .


Nice note on one of my favorite Cahors producers! We have been champions of this wine for several years now. We discovered them at a Martine's portfolio tasting in Chicago in 2011, and have had them on our wine lists ever since. I find that it displays all the lovely qualities of Cahors Malbec, and is a great transition wine to move Argentinian Malbec lovers into French wine. I find it interesting that others find their use of oak in their higher end wines obtrusive - I found those wines to be elegant and balanced, not to mention age worthy, much like a great Bordeaux, rather than overpowering.

If you get a chance, try their Cedrus Le Blanc - Colombard/Ugni Blanc blend. I am a huge fan of Gascogne white wines for their freshness and value. This one is a standout that drinks so far above its price point.
no avatar
User

Bob Parsons Alberta

Rank

aka Doris

Posts

10875

Joined

Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:09 pm

Re: Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sun Feb 15, 2015 7:47 pm

Joy, you are spot on regards white wine from Gascogne...(whisper) hopefully the prices will remain stable.
Also I know that Tim thinks highly of the Cahors area :D .
Next

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: APNIC Bot, Babbar, ByteSpider, ClaudeBot and 0 guests

Powered by phpBB ® | phpBB3 Style by KomiDesign