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Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

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Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Robin Garr » Fri May 01, 2015 10:04 am

It's warming up fast around here, and by the end of May it's going to start to look a lot like summer. What better time to start pulling out the pink wine, looking for those back-up-the truck offerings so good that we'll want to have a supply on hand to last through the hot season.

This month's topic is wide open. You're welcome to bring rosé wine from anywhere around the world, ranging from just off-white to nearly-red and every shade of pink in between. Open, taste and talk about it ... and be sure to let us know in particular when you catch one that's good enough to share.

Just for fun, here's an essay on pink wines that I wrote back in the early summer of 2002. I haven't changed my opinions much since then ...

Recalibrating for Rosé

It's all too easy to dismiss pink wine. Just ask my wife.

"It's not worth the bother," she says, arguing that rosé wine resembles nothing so much as watered-down red, lacking even the saving graces of steel or stone that elevate the best whites. The best pink wine you ever tasted is probably not all that much better than the worst, she insists.

Well, maybe.

Rosé wine hasn't enjoyed the greatest reputation in modern times. Perhaps influenced by the lack of snob appeal of American White Zinfandel, a wine known as modest, simple and usually quite sweet, the marketplace seems to dismiss all pink wines as uninteresting and forgettable.

But every year around this time, when heat and humidity start to lie like a heavy wool blanket over much of the Northern Hemisphere, the idea of a crisp, refreshing pink wine starts to sound appealing.

As I reported last summer around this same point, now is the time to "recalibrate" our palates toward pink wines in the Mediterranean tradition - rosés from Provence, the Rhone and Languedoc in France, pink Rosato from Italy and Rosado from Spain, not to mention wines made in a similar style from the U.S. and Australia. These bone-dry, freshly fruity and crisp wines offer just about everything you would want in a summer sipper. They're refreshing when served well chilled, and they go very well with dinner salads and light summer fare.

The best rosés are made from red wine grapes, but the grape skins (which contain all the color) are taken out of the fermenting vessel before they have time to impart much color to the wine. The result is a wine that varies from the palest pink to copper or salmon hues, a range of color that the French describe with a bewildering array of names from "vin gris" ("gray wine") to "oeil de perdrix" ("partridge eye") to "pelure d'oignon" ("onion skin").
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by JC (NC) » Sat May 02, 2015 9:15 pm

I am comparing two vintages of Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve and then will open a rose' or two.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by David M. Bueker » Mon May 04, 2015 8:23 pm

2014 Kutch Pinot Noir Rosé - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (5/4/2015)
Wow is this crazy stuff. It is dominated by red cherry fruit and has great finishing acidity. It might have a touch (and I mean a touch) of RS, but the acidity keeps everything in check, and it finishes totally dry. What a great drink on a hot spring day. Somehow 3/4 of the bottle was gone before I realized it.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon May 04, 2015 8:55 pm

Time to celebrate after another successful birding festival so I opened the 2013 Domaine Houchart Domaine de Provence . One can always enjoy anything from Houchart but the Rosé is traditionally exceptional in my opinion .
Aromas of melon and grapefruit, nice light salmon in color. Entry is dry with some citrus, melon and some strawberry tones. Good acidity and "red grapefruit" from across the table. I found the finish a tad tart but overall a very nice wine, as expected!
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Tim York » Tue May 05, 2015 5:18 am

That's a nice one, Bob. Unless things change from the present spell of blustery, stormy weather with les Saintes de Glace (mid-May frosts) due soon, I'll be opening few pinks this month. I rarely have any in the cellar and have to rush out to buy if we have a warm, dry spell. That happened in mid-April and I got these two quite decent rosés from local supermarkets.

2013 Expert Club Bandol - France, Provence, Bandol (4/15/2015)
"Expert Club is a label belonging to Intermarché supermarkets. Neither the label nor the modest price for Bandol inspire confidence but the wine is good. Colour is pale salmon and the nose shows discreet rose and some grip. The palate distinguishes itself from most rosé by a firmer backbone and greater depth and roundness than usual. These provide the framework for attractive ripe red fruit with rose notes. More serious than a lot of rosé and best IMO not too cool." July 2014.
An extra 10 months seems to have brought little change. Still good.

2013 Réserve des Chastelles Tavel - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Tavel (4/16/2015)
This looks like the supermarket's own label. It repeats the old Tavel claim "Premier Rosé de France" which I have never understood unless it be due to a darker colour than usual and often heavy alcohol. Thankfully this bottle did not reproduce the latter (only 12.5%). It was a fresh and very pleasant drink with some of the usual roundness, rose tinted fruit and depth but not seeking to be too important like some more prestigious names. Why two rosés on successive days? We have had a premature mini-heat wave (now finished) which meant eating summer salads outdoors. Good for purpose and worth repeating if that is not all the summer we are going to get.

Posted from CellarTracker

In general, I have a lot of sympathy for Robin's wife's view of rosé as reported in his introductory piece. Very few pinks IMO rise about the pleasant quaffer level. Exceptions include pink champagne, of course, some more northerly pinks especially those made from Pinot Noir (Sancerre rosé can be sublime with a little age) and occasionally Palette's Château Simone. I am very unconvinced by Château d'Esclans' attempts to make a "great" Provence rosé at prices close to €100; when I tasted one I almost had to pick the splinters out of my mouth.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Jenise » Thu May 07, 2015 1:22 am

2014 Domaine du Salvard Cheverny Rosé, France
Not as good as past vintages, unfortunately. Lacks fruit and the result is sour vs. merely austere--austere I would like. Does not hint at the pinot noir from which it's (usually) made--this year, the bottle is noncommittal about grape. Very disappointed.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Tim York » Thu May 07, 2015 3:25 am

Jenise wrote:2014 Domaine du Salvard Cheverny Rosé, France
Not as good as past vintages, unfortunately. Lacks fruit and the result is sour vs. merely austere--austere I would like. Does not hint at the pinot noir from which it's (usually) made--this year, the bottle is noncommittal about grape. Very disappointed.


Disappointing too for 2014, which is said to be a marked improvement on the three previous in the Loire valley. I am awaiting the June edition of RVF which will do a detailed survey of the 2014 vintage in France. There may have been local factors in Cheverny. How come that the importer chooses to bother with an inferior performance?
Last edited by Tim York on Fri May 08, 2015 4:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by David M. Bueker » Thu May 07, 2015 7:56 am

Three things going on:

1. Most importers are generally bringing in every vintage of the wines they carry to maintain presence and maintain the relationship.
2. The importer may not find the difference as extreme
3. Most consumers (we are indeed the exceptions) won't notice or if they do won't care, as they have the stuff so cold it tastes like ice water anyway, then they dump ice cubes into it.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Jenise » Thu May 07, 2015 11:15 am

And maybe the wine's fresh off the boat and suffering a little travel shock that another month or two of rest will cure to some degree. I'll have the chance to find out--it's a Kermit Lynch import (trusted brand) and a perennial purchase for me, so I bought several bottles when I saw it yesterday.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by David M. Bueker » Thu May 07, 2015 11:25 am

Yeah...makes sense. Kermit has long-standing relationships and brings in the same wines year after year.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by win_fried » Fri May 08, 2015 1:08 pm

The Rosé from Château Les Valentines Côtes de Provence has been my wifes favourite Rosé for the last years. This is not going to change this year. It is a blend of Grenache and Cinsault.

2014 Château Les Valentines Côtes de Provence Rosé - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence (5/8/2015)

Light salmon color. Nose of orange peel and super ripe gooseberry. Elegant fruity and herbal palate. Fresh aromatic finish.

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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Jenise » Fri May 08, 2015 1:20 pm

win_fried wrote:The Rosé from Château Les Valentines Côtes de Provence has been my wifes favourite Rosé for the last years. This is not going to change this year. It is a blend of Grenache and Cinsault.

2014 Château Les Valentines Côtes de Provence Rosé - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence (5/8/2015)

Light salmon color. Nose of orange peel and super ripe gooseberry. Elegant fruity and herbal palate. Fresh aromatic finish.

Posted from CellarTracker


Gooseberry in a rose? Interesting! I am probably overly influenced by color and though I realize red gooseberries exist, in tasting-note terms I only think of it as a green fruit. I'll have to keep gooseberry in mind.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by James Roscoe » Sat May 09, 2015 10:23 am

Chateau Beaulieu Coteaux D'aix en Provence: Paired well with fish tacos. Bone dry, nice citrus and spring fruits. Put down the only two bottles we had.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Tim York » Sat May 09, 2015 11:43 am

Jenise wrote:
win_fried wrote:The Rosé from Château Les Valentines Côtes de Provence has been my wifes favourite Rosé for the last years. This is not going to change this year. It is a blend of Grenache and Cinsault.

2014 Château Les Valentines Côtes de Provence Rosé - France, Provence, Côtes de Provence (5/8/2015)

Light salmon color. Nose of orange peel and super ripe gooseberry. Elegant fruity and herbal palate. Fresh aromatic finish.

Posted from CellarTracker


Gooseberry in a rose? Interesting! I am probably overly influenced by color and though I realize red gooseberries exist, in tasting-note terms I only think of it as a green fruit. I'll have to keep gooseberry in mind.


FWIW "red currant" and "gooseberry" have almost the same name in French. The former is "groseille rouge" and the latter "groseille à maquereaux" or "groseille verte". In taste terms, there does seem to me to be some relationship but whether that is also true in DNA i don't know.
Last edited by Tim York on Sun May 10, 2015 1:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sat May 09, 2015 11:59 pm

Great goose-cogs discussion! At a tasting downtown tonite, I found them on the nose of the 2014 Montes Cherub Syrah Rosé from Chile. The whole evening was a fund-raiser in support of the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation..more TNs to follow of course. Theme...Drink Pink :D .
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Paul Winalski » Sun May 10, 2015 11:08 am

Yes, redcurrants and gooseberries are closely related. Both are species of the genus Ribes.

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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Jenise » Sun May 10, 2015 1:58 pm

On Friday I took a bottle of the 2014 Stolpman Mourvedre Rose to Bill Spohn's monthly blind lunch. It was stunning. Nobody ever gives 100 pts to roses because you don't age them for 40 years, but this was truly a standout, a flawlessly attractive and unusually perfect California rose. The first question was "Is it French?" and the second, had the answer to that been 'yes', would undoubtedly have been about Bandol. Everybody was thinking "Tempier". Yesterday one of the guys emailed me that he found a case in California and had ordered six of them. As soon as I got that email I ordered the other six.

If by any chance you run across this, don't pass it up. Runs about $18.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by JC (NC) » Sun May 10, 2015 3:25 pm

From CellarTracker: 2012 Christian Salmon Sancerre (Rose') Cuvee Vielles Vignes, Loire, France.
Labeled as 13% abv. Alfio Moriconi Selection. Pale salmon color or "eye of partridge" color. The flavors evoke watermelon, citrus and unripe strawberries; it's a little puckery on the palate. Before dinner I tried this with three cheeses: a bite of Vermont white Cheddar, a smoked Gouda and a bleu cheese. I liked it with the Cheddar and Gouda but not with the bleu cheese. On the final glass I paired it with smoked ham and I liked that pairing. It's not the best rose' I've had from the Sancerre region but it's acceptable--maybe an 85 or 86 points IMHO. I found it a little dilute on the palate and a tad more acidic than ideal.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sun May 10, 2015 10:09 pm

Just had a second glass of the 2011 Agusti Torello Mata Rosat Trepat, Catalonia. Neighbour sent this over as a thank you for doggie-watching whilst he was away in the Yukon.

100% Trepat, like a Pinot Noir in some way. Lot 10-2014 so tank aged. Dry, tart, creamy fine mousse. Very good acidity, goes well with KFC..as most sparkling wines do! Was rather surprised to learn that he paid close to $35 Cdn for this from a store in Calgary. Aaagh well.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon May 11, 2015 12:55 am

Here is a real gem, a Rosé from Bordeaux you ask? 2013 Rosé de Chevalier, Pessac-Leognan, tasted at a recent do raising funds for local cancer foundation. $29 Cdn , cab/merlot blend naturally. Blue fruit on the nose, very good entry and big mouthfeel. "Cookie dough" from one taster, Best finish of all the wines tasted, 7 in total.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Tim York » Mon May 11, 2015 1:59 am

Bob Parsons Alberta wrote:Here is a real gem, a Rosé from Bordeaux you ask? 2013 Rosé de Chevalier, Pessac-Leognan, tasted at a recent do raising funds for local cancer foundation. $29 Cdn , cab/merlot blend naturally. Blue fruit on the nose, very good entry and big mouthfeel. "Cookie dough" from one taster, Best finish of all the wines tasted, 7 in total.


Bob, is this made by Domaine de Chevalier? If so, it should be good. Their reds and whites and amongst the best.
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon May 11, 2015 8:32 am

Yes, you are spot on Tim. I am a big fan of their white when one can find it!
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Tim York » Mon May 11, 2015 3:20 pm

I picked this up at a garden centre, of all places, expecting a warm spell which has hardly materialised. Domaine du Tariquet is said to be the largest family owned wine estate in France and has made a reputation for producing decent QPR wines in the South-West of France, mainly in the Côtes de Gascogne IGP. No excitement here.

2014 Domaine du Tariquet Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne Rosé de pressée - France, Southwest France, Gascony, Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne (5/11/2015)
Made from Merlot, CabFranc, Syrah & Tannat. Bright pink without the Provençal orange tints. Fresh and bright Altantic character with medium/light body, pretty red fruit, just a touch of boiled sweet, decent acidity and some grip towards the finish. Easy drinking. OK QPR at €7,50 and I suspect that it can had for less elsewhere.

Posted from CellarTracker

PS: I have just visited a website offering the same wine for €4,90!!
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Re: Wine Focus for May: Rosé for spring!

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue May 12, 2015 4:38 am

No doubt about it....... this Montes is QPR!!

2014 Montes Cherub Syrah Rosé, Colchagua Chile. $18 Cdn, . 100% Syrah, florescent pink color, more gooseberry than watermelon on the nose Really juicy, pepper finish with watermelon distinct. Good looking Ralph Steadman label.

2013 Gray Monk Rotberger Okanagan BC. Only known winery in N America to produce Rotberger. Rhubarb, cranberry nose with cherry blossom. Very nice lengthy finish with herbal hints and strawberry.
Reckon this could be a real crowd-pleaser if hand sold. $24 Cdn.
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