2007 Campolargo Tinto, Bairrada: So, when you think of red Bairrada, the Baga grape comes to mind. Or perhaps you've never thought of Bairrada, which is understandable. Campolargo is a sizable producer in that region of Portugal, and you might consider them to be a non-traditionalist who breaks the mold for a country mostly oriented around traditional grapes and practices. For example, they make a Bordeaux blend and a barrel fermented Bical (both quite good), as well as some more traditional stuff. So it is pretty surprising to find this is 100% Pinot Noir, and even more surprising: it is actually very solid. Looks like PN, with a not very saturated red, with some bricking (storage up to now was unknown). Certainly comes off as PN on the palate, straddling new- and old-world styles. Dark cherry with lots of spice and nuance, and a very decent finish. The oak has been handled well and is not excessive. Some might be shocked by the 14.5% abv, but it isn't obvious.
I"m not suggesting that anyone should search out a Portuguese Pinot (I love their native varieties), but it is interesting to see how this grape gets cultivated in all sorts of places with varying success. This is a pretty solid effort, and I wonder if they do as well in other vintages. As an aside, I picked this up for $10 at a Newark, NJ wine shop, but I have a feeling it is normally a much more expensive wine. It was either being blown out or mismarked.
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