WTN: Bedrock 2014 Evangelho

Mild cold with a sore throat, so last night was probably not the right time to open a Bedrock Wine Co. 2014 Contra Costa County "Heritage," Evangelho Vineyard. 14.1%, $40, but I did anyway. Slightly mixed feelings about this, which is a field blend including mostly Zinfandel, Carignan, and Mourvèdre (I don't know the precise proportions). On the one hand, it's got a very interesting nose, mixing pleasantly familiar brambly blackberry liquor with something almost floral; and at first taste I'm impressed with how bright and complex it is despite the overlay of wood treatment -- the core is still classic old-vine Zin but it reaches up toward bright-red (the Carignan?) and down toward something almost tarry and Petite-like (maybe the Mourvèdre?). Not hot or blowsy, not confected, nice structure, seems very distinctive though not made in the most light-handed style (nor the heaviest). But on the other hand, it becomes less interesting with time, as the wood influence seems to grow rather than to integrate; by the end of the bottle, on alternate sips I think the character of the wine is being drowned, then giving hope by surfacing again, then going back under. But that might just have been me. Probably could benefit from either one or eight years in the cellar. If this were $30 I'd go back for a couple more for sure, just to find out; at $40 I'm on the fence.